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Tips for car operation
Durability of the car Durability of the car in many respects depends on the style of driving, why we discuss how we drive, and how not to ride, unless, of course, there is a desire to preserve and car and money. Going by car to work or on a business trip, try to count how many times you have to use the clutch, gearbox and brakes. After all, while the machine is in order, who rarely comes to mind to pay attention to how those or other controls. Of course, to change, say, till time erased brake pads is simple. But the replacement of brake drums or discs have to tinker. And it is not easy to cope with the worn out details of coupling or gearbox. Nothing, of course, the car is not eternal. But if you are, say, unfairly often use coupling, maneuvering in dense city traffic, and do not remove the foot from the pedal, even standing at the traffic lights, placed 80 th. Km of run a coupling disk to serve, of course, will not. Early his replacement will not save the situation: on the order of premature failure of plates of "basket" clutch release bearing which from thoughtless operation of transmission simply "dries up" and breaks through the "basket" ... The same can be said about the transmission. The most "tolerant" of domestic - "Zhiguli" gearbox - is capable of "departure" and 150 and 200 thousand. Km without repair; slightly more capable of serving the gearbox Car Audi. But dashing management box, accompanied by jerky lever from one position to another, long before term puts out of action synchronizers. This, though not the most difficult, but repair. Therefore patient drivers, switching the transmission method used "at the three accounts," that is, as if to himself saying "one, two, three" while translating the lever from one position to another. However, the "athletes" who prefer to playfully "take off the bat," you have to pay not only coming from the steering system and prematurely worn tires. With this style of driving huge loading falls on a drive detail - constant velocity joints, bearings, clutch disc, not to mention the engine. No doubt, the modern cars equipped with powerful engines, can some time to go, as sports. But for the "sports" loadings they are not intended, of course, if it is not a "one-off" car. What if all the same it is necessary to "tear" the motor, getting on the muddy road and skidding in the sand or on ice? Experienced drivers know what to do in such cases: they create a vehicle within the conditions that increase its permeability. Sufficient to lower the pressure in the tires of the drive wheels to one atmosphere to greatly improve the traction with the surface of the dirt road. And on the front-wheel car, surpassing the cross-car of classical configuration, difficult sites of dirt roads overcome, moving in reverse.
Preparation of the car for winter All of the following tips and advice necessary to perform independently. If you do not want to mess around - there are service stations and masters-professionals. But, you should know exactly what needs to be done with the car, clearly explain it to the master, and sometimes to see to it that everything was done as it should. Bus Snow and ice do not go barefoot - the car for the winter, too, need to change s. On winter tires Much has been written, so let's briefly recall only the main points. For winter operation designed tires marked: ?�M + S?� (?�Mud + Snow?� means mud + snow), ?�W?� (?�Winter?�, or winter). These inscriptions are sometimes accompanied by icons in the form of snowflakes and clouds. Better to choose the tire slightly narrower than the ones that you use in the summer - of course, within the allowable range for the size of your car. Protector must push snow and mud porridge to a firm covering, narrow tires cope with this task better. In the winter season is not desirable to use the tires - the ones marked with the indices ?�AS?� (?�All Seasons?� - all seasons) or ?�AW?� (?�Any Weather?� - any weather). "Winter" possibilities at them frail; all-season in the full sense of the word can be considered only if it is a little snow in Europe, rather than Russia. Studded tires on ice and snow hold better than non-studded. But on pure asphalt at braking on thorns increases the likelihood of wheel lock, skidding and braking distances: steel thorns not bad slide on asphalt. The danger lies in the fact that drivers blindly trust in thorns and, braking on asphalt, expect from them the same death grip, as well as on the ice. By the way, non-studded winter tires of new generations on a slippery surface behave worse than the spike. Some drivers put winter tires on the drive wheels only. And on the left led ... summer. Do not do that, it's dangerous. On slippery roads drift potential studless pair of wheels is very high even in relatively harmless situations - too different coefficients of adhesion and resistance to lateral withdrawal. Engine The main problem in the winter - a cold engine start. Most often it occurs in relation to gasoline motors, but in a strong frost it can face and the owner of the car with the engine equipped with a fuel injection system. The reasons are known - the thickened oil, drop in battery capacity and bad evaporation of gasoline. Oils and batteries will be considered separately, as long as a few words about the experience of countries with a cold climate, which are widely used pre-start electric heater, a sort of "boilers" in the engine cooling system. I drove to the home or office, stuck a fork into an electrical outlet, turned on the timer ... By the necessary time the engine is warmed up, and some designs provide heaters and heating the cabin. Electric heating device for several years and are presented in the Russian market. The most popular Finnish heaters which can be equipped with timers. The main disadvantage of electric heating is that your home or office need to have a special plate with a rosette. Exit - Autonomous heater on liquid fuel, which is also built into the engine cooling system and works on the principle of the boiler. It serves as fuel for gasoline or diesel fuel depending on what your car engine is running. The benefit of heating systems consists in the fact that in their application increases engine life. Each engine cold start at -20 ?� C is equivalent to the mileage of 800 km. By the way, according to modern views the engine reaches operating temperature more quickly, and it will wear less if after start-up does not stand still and start moving as soon as possible, avoiding, of course, unnecessary load on the engine. Butter Change the oil prozvodyat usually in conjunction with the running car, not the season. The vast majority of modern motor oils in varying degrees, all-weather. It is believed that it is necessary to fill in what is prescribed by the manufacturer in the instruction manual. But there are different winter - warm and slushy, and frosty. And it is unclear whether the manufacturer assumed that its car will be used in conditions of Russian winter and that the oil would need "colder". If you decide to deviate from the instructions, when choosing oil, you can use simple method to determine its temperature suitability - for secure. We call this method "rule of 35". The marking engine oil should include the designation of its class on a scale of viscosity SAE. For example: 15W-40. This means that the oil viscosity in the "minus" temperature satisfies the requirements for winter oil grade 15W, and with "positive" - a class of 40 year old oils. Note the number "35". If you subtract from it "winter" index of viscosity class (in this example "15"), you get a quantity called the limit temperature pumpability, ie, The temperature at which the oil will still flow: 35-15 = 20. Hence, 15W-40 oil can be used at temperatures up to -20 ?� C. Accordingly, the smaller "winter" index of viscosity grade, the oil is "cooler?�: 10W - to -25 ?� C; 5W - -30 ?� C. This is the "rule of 35" - simple and useful. Accumulator battery Hit the frost, and the accumulator still yesterday vigorously Steep starter, he refuses to do so. No wonder: when you charge it the last time? If the battery is a relatively "young" (3-4 years), in anticipation of the winter it is enough to wash the outside, clean the terminals and fully charged (if the vehicle is continuously operated in the city, the battery charge, for sure, is far from nominal). If the battery is old and up to rated capacity does not charge me without hesitation, otherwise the winter he'll let you down - capacity and so strongly decreases with decreasing temperature, but there is also an increased power consumption: heater, heated seats, light "wipers" rear window heater ... According to experts, the average "full of life" of the battery is about 12 months, then begins a gradual "withering." And the sales peak of starter batteries, according to sellers, is necessary just for the autumn. Times when the automobile owner was knocked down in search of a new battery, long gone from a variety of brands and models on the shelves dazzled. How to choose - a personal decision. We note only that the market is now possible to allocate two price groups: batteries valued at over $ 60 (normally $ 100), such as Bosch, Steco, American, Fiamm, and batteries for under $ 60 (Mutlu, Inci, Centra, SAEM, etc. .). Higher prices of batteries of the first group are determined by more sophisticated technology of their production. These batteries are generally classified as non-performing. Special types of electrolytes and tight execution of such batteries increase their resources and provide high traction currents guaranteeing cranking the engine even at strong frosts. Leading manufacturers now mandatory use technology packaging plate, thereby avoids a short circuit of the battery in the event of their destruction. Cheaper batteries require periodic maintenance - check the density of the electrolyte and the measurement of its level. Often when buying a new battery try to choose more storage capacity, the battery would only climbed to the place reserved for her. But capacity is not important. More importantly starter current, which allows the battery. After all, even in high capacity battery, this figure (due to the high internal resistance) may be lower than the smaller capacity battery. In addition, high capacity batteries require a higher charging current, which is a generator of your car will not provide, and the battery during operation will be discharged more and more that is pitiable will affect battery life. When buying a battery different from regular, pay attention to the location of its terminals: batteries come across "reverse polarity", to which the terminal wire of your car may not reach. Ignition system Before the onset of winter do not forget the high-voltage wires. After a couple years of driving on our "salty" roads they are desirable to replace, it is best to cables with silicone sheath, which are less sensitive to temperature changes. Furthermore, they do not frost is formed, which is often the cause of lack of spark. Banal cause problems in the ignition system can be corroded or bad tighten the battery terminals. Separately - about candles. They are usually replaced every 15-20 thousand. Km, ie, once a year and a half (some cutting-edge candle stand of 100 thousand. kilometers or more). Save on candles (calcined, clean and adjust the gaps) is not necessary. Replace the spark at least once a year - it's inexpensive. New candles set on the eve of winter. Power system Often, the power supply system is the cause of poor performance of the engine in winter. And all of the accumulated water in the tank of the condensate. If the tank has a drain plug, drain the water can be just; if not, "neutralize", using the so-called moisture displacers. Almost all the leading manufacturers of auto chemical goods (STP, Loctite, Wynns, Aspokem) offer similar products: poured into the fuel tank, they gradually purify the power supply system. It is advisable to place and the new fuel fine filter, ensure clean nozzles. Body Winter is not the best season for a vehicle, especially when driving on the streets, heavily sprinkled with salt. During this period the body most exposed to corrosion, so its anti-corrosion treatment is highly desirable. However, according to some employees of authorized service stations, a number of new foreign cars, especially with galvanized body, the factory processing is sufficient. Anti-corrosion treatment requires strict observance of technology, and although almost all manufacturers of protective materials let them into the packaging for domestic use, still preferable to carry out processing in a specialized service center. It is necessary to advance to find out on what technology it is carried out. In any case, before applying the protective coating on the underside of the arch and the machine must be cleaned of dirt, washed and dried thoroughly. Winter - hard test for body paint. Sudden changes in temperature, snow mixed with salt, ice crust - all this leads to the appearance of micro-cracks in the paint. The surface of the body can be protected by special structures suitable for use at low temperatures, such as Plus Teflon or Color Magic. Treatment with these drugs is carried out about once a month after the obligatory washing machine and drying it. The question of where to keep the car in the winter, in fact, is usually not worth it: those who have a garage, keep it in the garage, those who do not - on the street. Oddly enough, in terms of preservation of the body (from corrosion, not from theft) between trips and overnight is best to leave the car on the street - with a cold body corrosion process goes more slowly. In cold garage of heat allocated car is enough for it to be a little warm, and melting snow with salt some time actively do the dirty deed. Well, in a warm garage, even if you carefully washed the car from salt from below, it will stand all night wet ... Glass Visibility - not only comfort but also safety. Therefore, I need hardly say that the windshield wipers, air cooling and heating of glasses should be serviceable. Brushes, leaving on glass matte strips, throw out safely. But buying new, try to choose a brand - Bosch, ITE, Champion, etc. Residents of the northern regions can try brushes heated, which are connected to the onboard network; They went on sale recently. Now directly on the glass. Their survey is better to entrust a specialist, but also his personal control not hurt. Even a small stone chip on the windshield in the first frost of autumn, after the rain turned into a full fracture. Existing technologies of repair allow to eliminate similar defect without removing the glass. It is easier and cheaper than replacing the glass. Another "winter" problem - misting. When a working ventilation system is rare, but ... the use of fluids helps defogger, for example Anti-Fog or Never Fog, which is enough to put on the glass once a week. Performance Materials All supplies, including antifreeze and hydraulic fluid drives the brake and clutch have their service life. If you have any doubt, do not select a portion of brownish or green with age antifreeze from the radiator and put it on trial in the freezer. Replace antifreeze. And do not skimp by buying doubtful preparations without labels and certificates - more expensive cost. No less should be approached carefully to the choice of freezing liquids for washing glasses. It is in the countryside at -20 ?� C under the wheels clean and dry snow. In Moscow, even in a strong frost - a dirty fat swill which brushes willingly smear on the glass, turning it into an opaque whitish film. Therefore, the stock liquid in a tank windscreen washer - a prerequisite for safe driving. But buying a fluid freezing temperature is -20 ?� C, do not flatter yourself, and not dilute it even if outside -10 ?� C. Practice shows that in the course of the liquid with a freezing point of -40 ?� C freeze on the windshield frost desyatigradusny even if the glass is not heated (to a question about the health of the system of ventilation and heating). Freezing liquids for windscreen washer, generally contain additives which effectively remove dirt and clean glass. Some of them, however, excessive foaming, and they are much better than cheap vodka, which some prefer to fill the tank.
Operation tire Tyres on any car wear out unequally and unevenly. This is due to its design (for example, lead and managed loaded more), the technical condition of the suspension (silent blocks, springs, shock absorbers) and other reasons. To the tires (including the "spare tire") during the operation wear out simultaneously and uniformly, the manufacturer recommend changing Fitting with every MOT, that is 10-15 thousand. Km. However, each bus, getting to a new place, first burned in, and it is not always without consequences. For example, it is better preserved outer track. Standing on the place of that where the same track more than worn out, she quickly rub her because they will first be loaded with badly worn Interior. Such running-tires "eats" the greater part of the resource (divergence), the worse the technical condition of the car, especially the suspension. In addition, after the repair or adjustment of the suspension toe-wear pattern remains on the old site of the bus will show whether the change here anything. Given all this, experienced motorists change tires sometimes 25-30 thousand. Kilometers, ie, one or two times to failure. In this case, replace (and purchase) can not all at once a set of tires that many arranges. The recommended tire pressure The recommended tire pressure is indicated on a label located on the inside of the hatch fuel filler. The pressure in the tires 155/80 R13, 175/70 R13 and 185/60 R14 should be 2.1 kg / s.
Do not start (tips) Your technical equipment must be perfect - because the time you have available, it is the same money which, hopefully, you too. Do not waste one nor the other. If one knows where the missing tie or prozhzhennaya iron trouser leg can cause disruption of a business meeting, then what to talk about a car that does not want to wind up in an hour before the appointment of the negotiations. Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans, you jump into the car, "the key to the start" and ... What the hell ?! One more time. More ... Nerve manipulation of the key in the ignition and the pedals do not bring success. Day flawed from the outset. Plans and mood - "down the drain". Calm down. Do not throw in the English suit under the hood and tie smearing mud, trying to make the diagnosis. For five minutes, it is not likely to cure. Take another car and another fell ill treatment leave until the evening. And better charge it "doctor" with a good reputation, especially if you are not an expert. So it will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is familiar to you and you think you are a healer - well, try it yourself, if you are not too lazy to get dirty or there is no alternative. By the definition of the diagnosis it is necessary to proceed calmly examine the mental symptoms. The first - "cool" if the starter? If so, how cheerfully? The answer is you know - remember what happened at the first attempt to start the car. If you do not remember, try again. If the starter is not spinning at all, or even click the traction relay when the ignition, then it is either defective (you can close the hood and follow the above advice: "Take another machine ..."), or faulty electrical power supply circuit of a starter (battery disconnected or villages). Only on rare models of starter power circuit can be protected by a fuse. It is easy to find, especially if you know in advance where it is. If the battery is to blame, then in addition to the starter, as a rule, does not work and all electrical equipment. The simplest and easiest case - came off, dirty or oxidized one of the terminals, but the battery is OK. Tighten loose terminals on it and on the starter (if any). If you find that the battery is fully seated (forgot to turn off the parking lights at night), you can still go, but with assistance. Here, as they say, are possible options. You can try to start the engine with the push or tug hill. But make no mistake: the car with an automatic transmission and electronic fuel injection (if there is an electrical fuel pump) to have these methods fail. We'll have to "get a light" from a neighbor. However, in some machines this can cause damage to the "computer" - the central block engine control (read the instructions in the car). If the starter turns, but sluggish (it happens in the summer, winter - the subject of a separate discussion), likely the battery is almost completely discharged. It will be seen in the weak light of headlights or the horn. In this case come into effect above embodiments unassisted. If the starter turns briskly, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start, feel excluded from further thinking everything related to the battery. Check the ignition system or the fuel supply can not go wrong. In determining the diagnosis and treatment of "diseases" of each system requires a systematic approach. Starting with the best plug - in that system problems are more common, especially in wet weather. So, it is necessary to "look for a spark." Your machine is equipped with a contactless electronic ignition system that can be integrated into the electronic control system of the engine. In any case, the ignition system consists of three parts. Part One - Low (plus a sensor box with e-filling, forming a spark). Part Two - step-up transformer, hereinafter referred to as the world ignition coil. Part Three - High (mechanical or electronic distributor of ignition and high-voltage wires of the ignition system, which is supplied to spark high voltage). And, of course, themselves candles. Check all that sector should be carried out in stages and is best to start "from the end." Step One. The high-voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark of the central wire - is the one that connects the ignition coil to the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cap and zoom to any part having good contact with "weight" (body) of the car (painted or not, does not matter), and secure so that between the tip and the selected piece remained a gap of 5-7 mm. Attach the wire should be particularly reliable: if they fall to the "masses", electronics instantly "will be discarded." For the same reason you can not "strike sharply" wire to the body. Hand hold it too does not recommend, not even his - cool electric shock. Step Two. Turn the engine starter. At the same time, see what's going on on the tip of the wire. There are two options. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by a loud click. This significantly narrows the field of further searches. The first step is to remove the distributor. Under it can be wet and muddy. According to this "Explorer" spark willingly jumps anywhere, just not where it should be. Wipe, cleaned and dried. At the same time harmless clean and contacts the distributor, for example, fine sandpaper. Look at the so-called "runner." If it or find a distributor cover a dark trail of electrical breakdown, the item will have to change. The most partisan way, check the wires from the distributor to the spark. Wires and terminals should be clean and dry. If they are, in your opinion, all right, you can put the cover back on, restore the connection and try to start the engine. If the problem was concealed under the hood, the engine has started, or in the worst case even begin to sneeze. Symptom too favorable - you are on the right track. True, it is necessary to turn out, to clean and dry the spark: in an attempt to start the engine you have filled them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneezes, candles still have to turn out, cleaned and checked. Simply, if you have a spare set. If you've already reached the stage of reversing of candles can be quite effective (and effectively) to check the ignition system as a whole. Connect to the high-voltage wires Remove the spark ignition system, bring a candle in a bunch as a carrot, and wrap it in soft candle threaded portion exposed wire. Make sure that the wire is in contact with each candle, but not with respect to their central electrodes. The free end of the wire to connect to "weight". By placing a bundle of candles in a convenient observation of the interior place, rotate the engine a starter. Spark between the electrodes in turn (in accordance with order of cylinders) should slip cheerful sparks. If so, then the entire ignition system is OK. The sound of the engine at the same time would be very unusual, but do not worry, because he turns to turn out candles. Long did not twist. Worse, if the second stage of testing there is another option: a spark between the central conductor and the "mass" no. So it is not a high-voltage circuits. Further searches are more complicated vote margin of time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Step Three. Check the voltage supplied to the ignition coil. It's easy to make a tester, and if it is not possible to use the engine compartment lamp. However, you will need a pair of wires to connect it to the coil. Connect the bulb should be between the "weight" and the input of the primary winding. In the third stage, as usual, as there are two possibilities: either the voltage across the coil is supplied or not. If applied, the coil fault - breakdown or short circuit, which, however, is extremely rare. The coil should be changed. More often poor contact in conjunction with the coil wires. Or the same wet dirt on the spark which leaked an unknown destination. Sometimes coil polished to a shine, but it is saved by the invisible, very narrow strip of mud - a good conductor. If the third stage you have verified that the voltage across the coil is not supplied - Electronics fault or loose connections and contacts in low-voltage part of the ignition system. With electronics (less sensor switch and in the case of the distributor), you are not right - for their diagnosis need special equipment. Except that you can pull sensor connector on the distributor - suddenly help. The voltage at the terminals of the connector 12 in all, so you can pull fearlessly. If the voltage appears (with pull contacts LED blinks), restore all unscrewed and disassembled, start the car and maybe even have gone about their business. If the engine does not start, but even sneezes - unscrew candles and ... (See above.). It may happen, and so that the entire ignition system checked, she's fine, and the engine, however hard you try, you still will not start. Hence, problems with the other of the previously mentioned systems - the power system, i.e. the fuel supply to the engine. If you have a machine with injection (fuel injection), do not touch it (the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it is faulty: there is a spark, fuel approach - it means that it, dear. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and craftsmen to repair it is useless and even harmful. A rare, but the most unpleasant diagnosis we have left for last. If the starter is working properly, and you've already spent a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and the power is in order, but a car nonetheless not start - is to inspect the camshaft drive belt. But decide for yourself: this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine was more than 60 thousand. Km. The difficulty is that you have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the closure strap plastic or metal casing. Perhaps belt teeth cut (at the belt, as in humans, the teeth are lost with age). In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not operate. It is clear that a toothless belt must be replaced. The procedure for replacing the belt is simple, but quite troublesome. Held in the hospital. Well, if everything is limited to replacement of the belt and the valves are not bent or all of the cylinder head - this also happens.
Clogged supply system (causes "atherosclerosis") Let's try to explain why the circulatory system of the car sometimes amazed "atherosclerosis." Gasoline - blood machine. And the blood shall be clean and run in a clean container. And that in the vessels above the permissible measures accumulates "cholesterol" tend to blame ourselves. How often do you use a canister for topping up the fuel tank? If so, then the chances of gasoline pipe and clog filters are rising, especially if your funnel without mesh. The canister is usually accumulates dust, rust, sand, and if the canister inside painted, and the paint particles. It is understood that less than the intermediate container is used in the path from the column in the gasoline tank, the better. Oddly enough, even in the most run-down gas station in the mud tanks in the specific ratio is less than the "home" canister. Beach of our petrol stations not so much mud as water. But here we are powerless. However, to personally do not add water to dilute domestic gasoline, always try to keep the tank full. The partial condensate tank accumulates, especially in the off season when there is sudden changes in temperature. It is necessary to say a few words about the battery. As in most modern cars it is maintenance-free, it makes no sense to give here the instructions for use. Let us give a few additional tips to keep the battery longer viable. Do not get carried away with your car napichkivaniem additional energy consumers. The fact that the energy balance of the machine is equipped with a certain reserve, allowing you to connect two or three "freeloaders", does not mean that you can hang on the car six and ten horns fog lights - keep a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unintended consumers on their own, it is likely damage to the insulation. And indeed, in practice, any, even the most qualified intervention in the wiring of the car sooner or later makes itself felt troubles. If your battery is "moribund", try not to turn off the engine while countless stops in the city. Nothing drains the battery as part of the use of a starter. And finally (this concerns not only the battery but also the entire vehicle electrics), remember: all the terminals, contacts, tips wires must be dry and clean, well adjacent to the "destinations". Dirty, greasy isolation sooner or later breaks, and any oxidation and burning of the contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) reason for the refusal of ignition or fire. I can stop there. Meticulous motorists will undoubtedly draw attention to some superficiality of our advice. Admittedly, we deliberately do not want to go into the jungle, not to provoke you to self - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the abdomen on the right does not mean that you ought to be removed at the appendix. But the doctor describe the symptoms of appendicitis, you should accurately. It helps to treat.
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