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Automatic transmission
Overview Since the automatic transmission and hydraulic control system are sophisticated devices and for repair requires special tools, some knowledge, skills and experience of working with an automatic transmission should be carried out in a specialized workshop. For this reason, the operation shown in this section are limited to a total area of diagnostics, routine maintenance and adjustments, removal and installation of transmission. It is also included replacing the seals of the input and driveshafts. Overhaul of transmission should be carried out in a specialized workshop. However, you can manually remove and install the gearbox, thereby reducing costs even further if the repairs will be carried out by a specialist gearbox. The adjustments that can be made independently, include working with the mechanism of inclusion downshift switch block (start from a neutral state), the vacuum diaphragm and thrust gear.
| Fig. 9.22. Automatic Transmission: 1 - gland; 2 - vacuum diaphragm; 3 - reel downshift; 4 - lock switch; 5 - the oil pan; 6 - oil line; 7 - a stopper for determining the fluid pressure; 8 - Cover; 9 - lock power steering; 10 - a tube test fluid level; 11 - drain plug; 12 - speedometer drive gear
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Main outer elements of an automatic transmission shown in Fig. 9.22.
Torques Nm M10 ..... 44-55 crossmember Bolt M12 crossmember ..... 95-118 Switch lock ..... 19-26 Bolt oil pan ..... 5-8 Bolts of fastening of a transmission to the engine ..... 91-118
A WARNING Never tow a vehicle with automatic transmission at a speed of over 50 km / h or more over a distance of 80 km (except in the case of towing with their drive wheels). Failure to do so can cause serious damage to the transmission, which are caused by lack of lubrication. |
General Diagnosis Malfunctions of an automatic transmission may be due to the following four reasons: - Unstable operation of the engine; - Incorrect adjustment; - Failure of the hydraulic system; - Failure of mechanical elements. Troubleshooting must always start by checking easily repaired elements and adjust parameters such as fluid level and its status, adjust traction gear and pull the throttle. Then draw a road test to determine whether the problem is resolved or requires further diagnosis. If the fault persists after the completion of preliminary tests, additional diagnosis should be carried out in a specialized workshop.
Checking and replacing the vacuum diaphragm Signs of damage are vacuum diaphragm vibration when switching and transmission include incomplete. Pour about 1 liter of the working fluid from the transmission housing to its level was below the vacuum diaphragm. Disconnect the vacuum hose and remove the vacuum diaphragm of the gearbox.
| Fig. 9.23. Using a vacuum pump to check the vacuum diaphragm
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Connect the vacuum pump to the diaphragm and check that the stock moved in low-pressure (Fig. 9.23). If the stock does not move or moves less than 25 mm, replace the diaphragm. Before installation grease sealing threaded aperture. After installation, check the fluid level and add it as needed.
Check and adjust the mechanism of compulsory inclusion of a hill-climbing gear If the transmission does not switch to a lower gear when you press the accelerator pedal up to the stop and turn on a downshift solenoid is not working properly, it is possible, the mechanism of inclusion downshift is defective or needs adjustment. Check.
| Fig. 9.24. Check switching mechanism downshift for an open
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When you press the accelerator pedal all the way ohmmeter connected on the circuit shown in Fig. 9.24, must show there is no gap between tracks. Adjustment. Loosen the lock nut and turn the mechanism to activate the downshift until the ohmmeter shows no break at the position of the accelerator pedal to 7/8 full speed. Tighten the lock nut.
Check solenoid inclusion downshift On damage to the solenoid downshift indicates no shift transmission into a lower gear when you press the accelerator pedal all the way either unstable or rough shifting. Lift the front of the car and secure on stands. Pour about 1 liter of the working fluid from the gearbox. Make sure wiring connector located near the battery, and disconnect it. Big pliers, remove the switch and close the hole with a cloth. Keep your finger on the plunger of the solenoid, fasten the body of the solenoid on the negative terminal of the battery and applying voltage to the contact switch from the positive terminal of the battery, make sure that the solenoid plunger is retracted. Replace solenoid, if there were any doubts as to his status. Before installing, apply sealant to the threads of the solenoid. After installation, check the fluid level and fill it if necessary.
Checking and replacing the locking switch Check Check the operation of the lock, making sure that the engine is started only when the selector lever is in the "park" or "neutral." Make sure wiring from the switch to plug and unplug the connector. Ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals switch, it must tend to infinity (gap) to "back up", "parking" and "neutral".
| Fig. 9.25. Pin locking switch
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Ignition and selector at the marked positions must not be rupture between the following contacts (Fig. 9.25): - "A" and "B" (parking); - "C" and ?�D?� (reverse); - "A" and "B" (neutral). Replacement Unplug the connector and remove the lock switch from the transmission case. Installation is performed in reverse order of removal. Before installing, apply sealant to the threads of the switch.
Removing and installing transmission Withdrawal Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Disconnect the speedometer cable. Disconnect the shift cable from gearbox. Disconnect the connection with "weight" of the transmission. Disconnect from the switch and solenoid interlock compulsory inclusion of a hill-climbing gear. Remove the starter. There are two basic ways to support the engine weight when removing the gearbox and the cross member. You can use a special device that relies on the support suspension, or hoist to lift the engine. If the device is used to support, install it first. When lifting the engine use a winch to increase workspace pre remove the hood. Fit the engine support and lift the car to provide a sufficient distance for lowering the gearbox, the car securely on supports. Disconnect from a transmission oil cooler lines. Disconnect and secure the back of all of the remaining vacuum hoses and connectors, disconnected from the gearbox. Remove the upper bolt transmission to the engine. Remove the front wheels and mudguards. Remove the protective plate of the oil pan. Disconnect the stabilizer bar, remove the lower ball joint bolts and nuts, peel ball joints. Remove the left drive shaft from the gearbox and soft wire fix it on the body. Remove the intermediate drive shaft and suspension assembly. Insert a wooden plug or the like to hold the plug in place of the differential satellite. To gain access to the torque converter, remove the plate and the separation plate. Have an assistant crank the engine a wrench for a pulley bolt to install it in a position where you can access to the bolts fastening the torque converter. Remove all the screws, but two of the cross member assembly. Place the jack under the crossbar, remove the bolts and the lower cross member. Jack through wooden block support gearbox. Making sure that the engine weight was perceived support device, remove the two screws on the bottom of a transmission to the engine. Take the transmission from the engine and gently remove it from under the car. Setting Lift the gearbox and attach to the motor, making sure that the converter is not shifted. Screw bolts of a transmission to the engine and tighten their demanded moment. Install the engine cross member. Further installation is carried out in sequence, return to removal, taking into account the following. Make sure all nuts and bolts are tightened demanded moment. Check the fluid level.
Replacement seals gearbox Oil seal input shaft Remove the gearbox. Remove the torque converter to the input shaft. A small screwdriver or a punch, remove the old seal from the gearbox housing. Grease the sealing lips of oil seal with clean engine oil and press in the oil seal in the hole flush with the crankcase. Working edges of the gland should be directed into the crankcase. Install the torque converter. Install transmission. Seals driveshafts Remove the left drive shaft or intermediate driveshaft. Insert a wooden plug or the like to hold the plug in place of the differential satellite. Do not allow dirt into the gearbox. Use a screwdriver to remove the old seal from the gearbox housing. Grease the sealing lips of oil seal with clean oil or lubricant white lithium-based. Tubular mandrel diameter of 45 mm press-fit the oil seal into the hole. Working edges of the gland should be directed into the crankcase. Install the left drive shaft or intermediate driveshaft.
Check and adjustment of a cable of a gear change
| Fig. 9.26. The provisions fixing the thrust gear
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Set the selector lever sequentially at each position and make sure it is fixed at each position corresponds to the switch plate (Fig. 9.26). When you turn each position should feel a slight resistance. The selector lever must be moved between the positions of the "movement" and "neutral" without pressing the button on the handle of the selector. The button must be pressed when moving the selector lever from the "Movement" to "back up."
| Fig. 9.27. Details of the selector lever and shift cable: 1 - pin cable mounting the gearbox; 2 - wire gearshift; 3 - a bolt of fastening of the lever; 4 - button; 5 - lock nut buttons; 6 - pusher; 7 - the selector lever; 8 - the guide pin; 9 - lock nut cable; 10 - Suspension selector lever; 11 - a nut and washer
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If the button is too loose or the switch can be moved from the "Movement" to "back up" without pressing the button, the button to adjust the switch. Loosen the lock nut and screw up the lever button until you reach the desired operation of the shift cable; then tighten the nut (Fig. 9.27).
Replace the oil pan gasket Drain the gearbox.
A WARNING Be careful - the liquid can be very hot. |
Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and remove the pallet, thus prepare for the possible leakage of fluid. Remove the remnants of the old gaskets from the transaxle case and oil pan, being careful not to damage the gasket surface and to eliminate the ingress of dirt into the gearbox housing. Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, previously put on it a layer of pure lubricant to hold the pads in the correct location. Install the oil pan and fix bolts, having tightened their demanded moment. Replace the drain plug, fill the gearbox with fresh hydraulic fluid. Check the gearbox for leaks.
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