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REPAIR MAINTENANCE OPERATION OF MOTOR VEHICLES
Mazda 626 (from 1991 to 1998, the year of issue)

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Mazda 626
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The electric motor
 


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The electric motor



The most common fault in the electric motor - insulation breakdown in the windings. Let's say you put the car into the parking lot, and turn off the "wipers" forgotten. Three to four hours is enough to burnt coil. Or a rag left in the engine compartment niche where moving rod wiper. Motor jammed with the same result for its windings.

Sometimes it is possible to restore the insulation has withstood anchored bank with engine oil. A much larger effect is slightly heated linseed oil, stand if it anchored in several stages, making subsistence breaks to dry.

The same problem - the breakdown of the winding - catches and electric windshield washer. There is often a lack of attention from the vehicle owner when a water tank is empty, or the liquid is frozen or "tightly" clogged jets, sprays or pump filter, and fuse in the circuit of the electric motor is "bug".

In general the fuse is better not to joke. This will avoid not only the short-circuit fire sometimes ending, but also easier to detect faults.

For a beginner motorist should be the golden rule: the search for the cause of electrical faults should start with the fuse box.

I remember when I bought my first car, it is still in the store drew attention to the fact that the warning lamp for the battery. Then was born the assumption that there must be a brush of the generator has not yet got used, or "fooling" the voltage regulator (at that time cars were equipped with mechanical relay regulators Bulgarian production. Sometimes, they work on the "overcharging", and the lamp lights). Replacing the relay control of the results has not given: a generator does not produce energy. Replacing the brush assembly also proved futile.

It was necessary to remove the generator from the system pre-drain the coolant and remove thermostat. Check the generator windings and the "bridge" diodes showed that everything is in order. Only then, having done all this unnecessary work on a completely new car, I think to look at the fuse box. Of course. the corresponding fuse in the circuit excitation winding of the generator was not simple.

So if you have refused a generator, start checking the safety. Even if it is intact, not too lazy to clean up the area of its contact. Only then grasp the generator.

But do not rush with its dismantling and removal. First, check the brush assembly. The presence of large chips on the brushes, their considerable wear and lubrication can already cause a failure of the generator.

Pay attention to the condition of contact rings anchors, which are visible in the window, into which the brush assembly. Scratches and grooves appear sanded and then polished. If these steps fail, the need to undertake rectifier unit after disconnecting the wires from the battery and the generator. Check unit produced by a control lamp. The negative pole of the battery is displayed on the generator housing, a positive - through the bulb - the withdrawal of "30".

If the bulb lights up, it means that rectifier unit is broken and needs to be changed. Sometimes, however, that prbivaet either positive or negative block valves. But these details, perhaps it is better not to go, the more that a separate replacement valve is not practiced.

Finally, on the starter. This is perhaps one of the most durable units of the car, though, and "running" it in the toughest conditions. Even when the engine is thorough repaired, in a starter, it happens only change the brushes and slip rings cleaned.

The weakest spot starter - overrunning clutch, or "Bendix": it happens to be a fly or lie back pressure rollers. And then when starting the engine only heard the buzz: the starter spins but does not turn the engine flywheel. Sometimes it helps to flush "Bendix" in kerosene or acetone. But craftsmen usually flared ring with rollers and either change all the details of the cage, or they are washed thoroughly.

Another common failure is more concerned not with the starter, and the oxidation of a cliff or a special tip wicker bus connecting the engine to the body, that is, "mass" (the tire is located under the engine). In this case, the starter makes a distinctive clicking or generally "silent", unless, of course, the "silence" is not due to another cause - disconnecting the battery positive wiring the starter relay. Anyway needed verification. If the postings on the site of the relay - hold the bus. But if postings yet popped, do not try to insert it, without removing the starter - will lose your time. The starter will have to be dismantled.





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