Removing paint damage

During the movement of fine dust and stones flying towards your car, so on the front of the formation of micro-cracks paint. It occurs most often in winter when icy flying baby. In this case, you can use a protective paste and then polish the surface.

Repair damage caused by small strokes

Many vendors are advised to apply for the removal of small dents (formed from impacts of small objects the size of a pinhead) nail scratches, which is rubbed by hand. The alternative is a varnish that is applied with a brush, and filling potholes much more effective. For conventional coatings can be applied and special wax crayons in the color of the car. However, the layer of wax pencil can withstand only a few washes, after which it must be applied again. Marking paint and color code of the car you'll find on the rating plate, which is on the crossmember under the hood.

Removing paint damage

Paintwork damage should not be ignored, since such adverse conditions, such as moisture and heat, a few days can start corrosion. Therefore, it removes paint damage as soon as possible. If rust months or years to spread unchecked, you will recognize it by swelling, which indicates the appearance of holes in the metal body. In this case, help is only restoration work on the body that are not described in this manual.

Basic tools needed to remove paint damage

To eliminate paint damage must have:

- Adhesive tape;

- Paper or film;

- Sanding block of wood or cork for grinding on a plane;

- Sandpaper different numbers;

- Trowel and putty; hardener; putty, spray applied, for leveling irregularities;

- Primer;

- Overprint varnish in the color of the car;

- Cleaner for lacquer, a preservative and polishing compound.

Repair damage caused by stone impact

1. If you are around a pothole formed on the lacquer coating raised edges, remove them with a fine needle. If rust is formed, carefully remove it with a penknife. Sprinkle this place rust neutralizer and wait for about an hour.

2. Damaged places treat gasoline or solvent, dry well.

3. Brush or fingertip, apply a thin layer of a little primer. Wait until the primer is dry.

4. fingertips or a small plastic putty knife, apply a bit of a pothole, without locking varnish and let it dry. Keep a rag at the ready and a solvent to remove stains immediately with varnish filler.

5. If you have done too much filler, to secure the end of a pencil piece of sandpaper ?��0 and rotating pencil, carefully remove excess putty.

6. Drizzle a bit of nail into the lid of a container with varnish, and wait 1 minute. Slightly dried up varnish or a fingertip, apply a thin brush on the damaged area is very thin.

7. When the paint is completely dry (approximately 2 summer and winter - 5 days) restored portions treat polishing agents, and the edges, if necessary, - a solvent varnish.

Polishing minor scratches

1. Damaged place clean gasoline or solvent. If the damaged area has become a color different from varnish, polishing ototrite its preparation or lacquer thinner. Whenever possible, this zone is not much polishing must go beyond the edge of the seat to change the color of paint.

2. If the edge of the rough scratch, abrade these places wet velvet sandpaper (grain - no more than 600) to smooth or eliminate grinding paste (Fig. 3.23) or detergent to polish, if you have left a layer of the coating varnish. Do not forget to constantly moisturize sandpaper.

3. Polish the damaged area with a mild polishing agent. This paint particles from the damaged area surrounding the varnish distributed in a scratch.

4. Apply to the treated area preservative.

5. If you care gloss coating that upon completion of all work, polish your car entirely.

Removing heavy scratches

1. If on the bumpers, fenders or doors have strong scratch, before the restoration of varnish, remove these parts from the body - so it will be easier to handle damaged areas.

2. Evenly sand the damaged surface with sandpaper (grain size - 80 or 100). You can also attach sandpaper on the grinding bar (Fig. 3.24). Scratch the surface of the grind of uniform motion in one direction. Always lower the bar into the water to clean it from the residues of paint. If rust is formed, this is the place to grind metal, apply a rust converter and leave for an hour.

3. Clean and degrease the place with gasoline or solvent, and let dry.

4. Mix the putty and hardener. Putty binds to the damaged area bordering it with lacquer.

5. Apply the filler (Fig. 3.25) evenly in several thin layers. (If you are working with a spatula for the first time, be trained to apply filler on the old piece of metal before proceeding to the main action). About an hour later solidified layer.

6. Irregularities abrade dry sandpaper (grain - 240). For fine grinding, use a damp velvet sandpaper (400 grit) and grind without pressing.

7. If you see a notch, apply putty spray, let it harden and finally grind wet sandpaper (grain - 600).

8. Before applying the varnish to remove dust from sanding.

How lacquered professionals

Close the zone close to the treated place with adhesive tape (waterproof and stretch) film or paper. You can also cut a large hole in a piece of paper the size of the treated place (Fig. 3.26), then you do not paint over the superfluous.

As a basis for the fine-pored coating of varnish, apply a first coat (filler), which is sold in the form of a spray. Work carefully - the irregularities are not corrected when applying subsequent layers, and vice versa - increasing. Allow the primer to dry and sand before coating uniformity wet sandpaper (grain - 600). Rinse polished residues.

Evenly apply a topcoat of spray (sold in the form of a spray) (Fig. 3.27) with several layers. Distance from the cartridge to the surface to be treated should be 20-30 cm. The spray varnish on the surface to be treated exactly behave, do not interrupt and do not describe ovals - this will reduce sagging. Before applying the lacquer slightly hold the can in hot water (without heating it to a temperature higher than 40 ?� C). This measure will increase the internal pressure in the cartridge and exiting the jet will polish thinner, stronger, and applied layer - Exactly.

The edges of the adhesive tape (paper or film) adjacent to the treated surface, carefully peel back and also treat the coating varnish. This will make the color transition invisible.

When the paint is completely dry (after 2 days in the summer, winter - 5), treat the place renovated polishing preparations, and the edge - a solvent for varnish.

If you care gloss coating, on completion of all works, polish your car entirely.