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Technology services, tools and the workplace equipment

Technology Services

There are several methods of performing the procedures of maintenance and repair of the car on which the reader can find references in the text of this manual. Following them will make the work more efficient, would allow the best to organize the workplace and efficiently execute various technical procedures.

Fasteners

Clamps called nuts and bolts, and screws which serve to connect two or more parts. When working with fasteners to be constantly aware of some things. Virtually any fasteners used some form of X's and fixation devices. It can be lock washers, lock nuts, lock boxes or thread locking compound for. All threaded fasteners used should be absolutely clean and smooth, with unbroken thread and Rounded hex heads that are worn wrench. It should make it a rule obligatory replacement of damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special self-locking nuts with nylon inserts or fibers can not be reused, since the giving of the X's are losing their properties.

Rusted bolts and nuts to facilitate the give and to avoid their damage should be treated as a special penetrating composition. Many mechanics prefer to use for this purpose turpentine which is convenient to put out a special small canister with a long spout. After wetting "become attached" fixture penetrating composition, before proceeding to his giving of, should be given a structure for a few minutes to impregnate the oxidised contact layer. Strongly rusted fixture can be cut down a chisel, hacksaw to cut or remove with a special gaykoloma.

The threaded connections that are subjected to large temperature changes (such as valve EGR, oxygen sensor, exhaust manifold), tend to weld, making it difficult to dismantle the next service. For ease of giving this fixture lubricate it with grease before tightening Molycote 1000 30 20 971 or Never Seize.

When cutting the bolt head or breaking of the stud in the assembly, the threaded portion of the residue can be drilled or removed with a special tool. Most plumbing and repair trucks can undertake performance of this, as well as others (eg, restoration of stripped threads in the threaded holes), repair procedures.

Flat and lock washers during assembly should always be fitted in place in the same manner and in the same manner as before. The damaged washers always replace with new ones. Between a lock washer and a soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic always install flat washers.

Dimensions of fasteners

For many reasons manufacturers of cars more and more widely used metric fasteners. However, it is important to know the difference between used sometimes fasteners standard SAE (also called American) and more universal system of measures metric fixture as, despite the external similarity, they are not interchangeable.

All screws as standard SAE, and metric are classified by diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, one bolt SAE / 2-13x1 has a half-inch in diameter, 13 threads per inch and a length of 1 inch. Metric M12-1.75x25 bolt has a diameter of 12 mm, the thread pitch of 1.75 mm and a length of 25 mm. Both bolts are almost identical in appearance but are not interchangeable.

In addition to the featured bolts can be identified by examination of their heads. The distance between the flats of the bolt head metric measured in mm, while the standard SAE bolt - in inches (the same is true for nuts). As a consequence, the wrench of SAE standard is not suitable for use with metric fasteners, and vice versa. In addition, the heads of the bolts more SAE standard usually have radial notches defining the maximum admissible effort of a tightening bolt (degree of strength). The greater the number of notches, the higher the permissible force (typically used on vehicles with bolts degree of strength from 0 to 5).

Dimensions and marking bolts of strength class SAE standards and USS

G - Marking strength class L - length (in inches) T - Pitch (number of threads per inch) D - The nominal diameter (in inches)

Dimensions and marking strength class of metric bolts

P - Strength class L - Length (mm) T - Thread pitch (the distance between adjacent coils), mm D - Nominal diameter in mm

Strength class of metric screws determined digital code, which is usually cast onto a bolt head.

Marking a class of durability of bolts (top - SAE and USS, bottom - metric)

Also on the labels of strength class SAE standard nuts can be distinguished from the metric. To identify the SAE strength nuts apply dot marks stamped on one of the end surfaces of the nut, while marking metric nuts made using again figures. The greater the number of points, or the higher the value of the digital code, the higher the permissible force tightening the nut.

Marking a class of durability standard hex nuts of SAE and USS

Hexagon nut Strength class 5 Identification Class - Three points	Hexagon nut Strength class 8 Identification Class - Six points

Marking a class of durability of metric hex nuts

Hexagon nut Strength class 9 Identification Class - Arab 9	Hexagon nut Strength class 10 Identification Class - Arab 10

End faces of metric hairpins also are marked in accordance with the class of their strength. Large labeled hairpin digital code, whereas the smaller marking is in the form of a geometric figure.

Marking a class of durability of metric studs

1 - Class 10.9 2 - Strength class 9.8 3 - Class 8.8

It should be noted that a significant portion of the holder, in particular the class of strength from 0 to 2, generally not labeled. In this case, the only way to distinguish the SAE fasteners on the metric is to measure the thread pitch, and comparing with the standard thread.

Since the hardware of the same geometrical size may have different strength classes, the replacement car bolts, nuts and studs should be given to matching the strength class of the newly established fixture strength class old.

Procedures and tightening of carving connections

Tightening most of threaded connections should be made with the efforts defined by requirements of Specifications, cited at the beginning of each chapter of this manual (under the force of a tightening of fixture to be understood when it is applied to the tightening torque). Tightening with excessive force can disrupt the integrity of the fixture, while nedotyagivanie leads to unreliable connections mating components. Bolts, screws and pins, depending on their material and diameter of the threaded portion, typically have well-defined allowable tightening efforts, many of which, as mentioned above, are shown in Specifications at the beginning of each chapter. To tighten the fasteners are not mentioned in the specification, you should use the map below allowable torques. Values in the table are focused on fixture strength classes 2 and 3 (fixing a higher class permits tightening with great effort), in addition, it is understood that the delay is made of dry (with unlubricated thread) fasteners in steel or cast (not aluminum) part.

Efforts of a tightening of metric threads

Efforts of a tightening pipe threads

Efforts of a tightening thread SAE standards and USS

Located on the perimeter of any fasteners (such as the cylinder head bolts, oil pan, and a variety of covers), in order to avoid deformation of the details should be given and be tightened in the correct order as described in the relevant chapters of the Guide. If this order is not specified, then avoid the curvature component should follow the procedure below. In the first step, tighten all bolts or nuts by hand. Then each element in turn fasteners hold on for one full turn, the transition from one bolt / nut to another should be done in a diagonal order (cross-wise). Then, returning to the first bolt / nut, repeat the procedure in the same order, tightening fixture for another half-turn. Continue to operate in the same manner, tightening each bolt / nut this time a quarter turn in one go as long as they will not appear tightened with demanded effort. At the giving of fasteners should also adhere to the above procedure, but in reverse order.

Dismantling components

Dismantling of all components should be conducted in such a manner that at assemblage each detail can be installed at its original location and in the right way. Memorize the characteristic features of the appearance, if required produce marked landing parts which are installed in place can be made a mixed manner (such elements include, for example, equipped with a thrust washer groove on shaft). A good idea would be the location of the removed parts on a clean surface in the order in which they performed the removal. It will be useful also to compose simple schematic sketches or photographs to be step by step dismantling or removal of the component.

When removing fasteners try to mark its original position on the assembly. Often the immediate installation of fixture and washers to their original location after the removal of the relevant parts avoids confusion in the assembly. In the absence of such a possibility, all fixture should be put in a specially prepared for this purpose, divided into sections marked box, or just for individual labeled containers. Such a course of action is particularly useful when working with components composed of many small parts, such as a generator, the valve mechanism, the instrument panel or the decorative elements of the interior paneling.

When disconnecting the electrical contacts and connectors should mark the individual wires or harnesses with electrical tape coated with a numeric or alphanumeric code.

The intermediate surface

All laying vehicles used for sealing the interface mating surfaces of two or more items, and serve to prevent leakage of oils and fluids within the assembly and maintenance of high pressure or vacuum.

Typically, such pads prior to installation is required to cover the liquid or pasty sealing compound. Often under the influence of time, temperature or pressure occurs so strong "from sticking" to each other interfaced surfaces that division of details becomes difficult to achieve. Dismantling such sites helps tapping them outside the perimeter of the junction hammer with soft brisk. You can use for this purpose also the usual hammer, putting blows through a wooden or plastic spacer. Do not make tapping cast cases and fragile components. In the event of such difficulties always first of all check whether all the fasteners removed. Try not to be used for the separation of parts screwdriver or pry entering their mating surfaces between them thus easily damaged, which can then cause leaks. If podrychazhivaniya "become attached" elements of the assembly can not be avoided, use for this purpose the wooden handle of the old brooms, but do not forget to carefully remove from mating surfaces and from within assemblage all formed chips.

After the separation of parts of the mating surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned, they scrape the old gasket material. The hardened fragments of the old gasket can be pre-softened with a converter rust or a special chemical composition and then removed with a scraper. As in this case a scraper may be used to cut the copper tube and flattened pointed end. The use for this purpose is a copper tube is recommended, as copper is usually softer materials used in the car, which reduces the risk of damage to the mating surfaces. Some pads can be easily removed with a copper brush, however, regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be absolutely clean and smooth. If for some reason turned out to scratch the mating surface, before assembling the components fill the scratch gasket sealant. In most cases, you should use the uncured sealant or poluzastyvayuschim.

Tips for removing hoses

Do not disconnect from the components of the air conditioning (A / B) any hoses until the until the system is discharged specialist workshop service centers.

Precautions to be observed when removing the hose, very close to those when removing the seals. Do not damage the surfaces of fittings and nozzles on hoses that are worn, as this can cause leaks. In particular as it relates to the procedure for removal of coolant hoses. Because of the different chemical reactions occur "from sticking" rubber hoses to the mating surfaces of the fittings and pipes. To remove the hose first loosen the collar of its fastening on the union. Then the tongs with the sliding hinge grab the hose near the collar and start to rotate it on the nipple or nozzle from side to side. Continue this procedure until the full liberation of the hose, then remove the hose from the union. A small amount of Silicone or other lubricants facilitate the process, though it may be introduced into the gap between the nipple and the hose. To facilitate the installation of the hose lubricate the inner surface and an outer surface of the hose fitting.

As a last resort, or in the case of an unambiguous need to replace the hose, to remove from the union of the end of the hose can be cut with a knife. At the same time, try not to damage a knife metal fitting or the connecting pipe.

In the event of damage to the hose clip, replace the clamp. Clamps of the pitch type generally weaken over time, however, regardless of their state, in case it is better to replace the screw-type clamps.

Tool

Choosing a good tool is one of the basic requirements for everyone who plans independent performance of procedures of maintenance or repair of the vehicle. At first glance, the costs associated with the acquisition of the required set of instruments that may seem large, but when comparing them with the costs associated with the implementation of procedures of routine maintenance and simple repairs to the car to the service station, will be quite reasonable.

Below are lists of the three sets of instruments. For vehicles that do not have experience of mechanical works, should begin with the procedures, the limited use of tools from the first list, while improving their skills and gradually expanding the range of tools used. As you gain experience, you can move on to more advanced tasks, complementing the existing set of tools on hand. After some time, these skills will allow to start more complex tasks that require the use of tools from the second list (for the general and car major repairs). When the qualification will start to allow significant savings in the independent performance of complex procedures remntnyh can consider buying a special tool.

A set of tools for routine maintenance and the minimum car repairs

The following list includes the minimum necessary to perform the procedures of routine maintenance and minor repairs car tools. Acquisition set recommended combination wrenches (with conventional Pelvic head at one end and a cap at the other). Despite the great value of this set compared to the cost of conventional open-end wrench set, the costs will be justified, as data keys have the advantages of both types.

• Set of combined keys from 8 to 19 mm
• Adjustable wrench (35 mm)
• Candle key with a rubber insert (petrol models)
• Tool for adjustment of a candle backlash (petrol models)
• A set of test leads
• Barbed key to pumping the brakes
• Screwdrivers:
  • With the flat tip (100 mm long by 6 mm in diameter)
  • Phillips screwdriver (100 mm long by 6 mm in diameter)
• Combination pliers
• Hacksaw with a set of paintings
• The pump for pumping of tires
• Pressure gauge to measure tire pressure
• Grease gun (gun)
• Canister under oil
• Fine sandpaper
• Wire brush
• Stripper terminals and contacts wires of the battery
• The key is to remove the oil filter
• The funnel (medium size)
• Props for car fixing in the raised position (2)
• Dump tank

A set of tools for general and major repairs of the car

The following tools will be required when carrying out repair a car engine and is offered in addition to the first list. This list includes the complete set of replaceable face heads. At considerable cost, a set of replaceable heads brings invaluable advantage, thanks to its versatility and easy handling - especially in combination with the included various types of drives. It is recommended to use the drive section is preferably 1/2 inch (instead of 3/8) as They, though, and are more expensive, can be used with virtually any type torque wrenches (ideally, a good mechanic should have at its disposal both types of drives). A cheaper alternative set of replaceable face heads is the set of tubular keys.

Set of removable sockets (including the head of the "Torh") or tubular key sizes corresponding to the sizes of wrenches from the previous list

• Reversible ratchet drive (for use with replaceable face heads)
• Gate 250 mm
• PTO drive (for use with replaceable face heads)
• Torque wrench (with a drive of the same size, as for replaceable face heads)
• Self-locking pliers
• A hammer with striker round (about 230 g)
• Hammer with soft brisk (plastic or rubber)
• Screwdrivers:
• With a flat sting (length 150 mm and a diameter of about 6.5 mm)
• With a flat sting (strong ?�� 2, 8 mm)
• Phillips screwdriver (?�� 3, 203 mm)
• Phillips screwdriver (a strong number 2)
• Clamping tongs
• Pliers:
  • For electricians (with the isolated handles)
  • Old World (needlenose)
  • For retaining rings (internal and external)
• Chisel 25 mm
• Scraper (made of flattened and sharpened at one end of the copper tube)
• Scriber (scriber)
• Punch
• Beards with a thin tip (1.6, 3.2, 4.8 mm)
• Set of hose clamps
• Set for pumping the brakes
• Set of drills
• Steel ruler / measuring flatness
• Set the bar-shaped hex key (for heads with hexagon socket)
• A set of files
• Wire brush (large)
• The second set of backups
• Jack (hydraulic or foot type)

Another tool is the constant need for electric drill with a cartridge to 9.5 mm and a set of qualitative drills.

Special Tools

In this list get instruments that are sufficiently costly, are not required regularly, or demanding at using the instructions of the manufacturers of instruments. If the scope of your activities do not include frequent performance of difficult mechanical operations, the purchase of such a tool would be a bad investment. It is reasonable to acquire it by clubbing with friends or rent car service workshops.

The list includes only those tools that can be found in retail trade or which are available for distribution to the Executive branch of the firm. Sometimes the text of the Guidelines can be found references to such special tools. Usually authors try to offer in parallel the alternative method to avoid the mandatory use of hard-tool. Should avoid the use of special tools is impossible, and its acquisition in using is problematic, performance of corresponding works is better for entrusting experts SRT.

• Tool for compressing valve springs
• Tool for grinding valves
• Device for cleaning the piston ring grooves
• Tool for crimping piston rings
• The tool for installation of piston rings
• Meter degree of compression of gases in the cylinders (kompressiometr)
• Countersink for processing the edges of the cylinder
• Hon for processing of mirrors of cylinders
• Meter diameter cylinders
• Micrometer and / or dial caliper
• Tool for centering clutch
• Puller ball bearings
• Stripper of universal type
• Impact Screwdriver
• Set the dial gauge
• Strobe (inductive sensor)
• Manual combined pump (vacuum / blower)
• Set of taps and button dies
• Tachometer / tool for measuring the duration of the closed condition of contacts of the breaker
• Universal tester for electric measurements
• Lifting gear
• Tool for removal / installation of brake springs
• Bogie jack

Purchase Tool

In preparing for the procedures of routine maintenance or the minimum car repairs reasonable to acquire tools separately. On the other hand, in the case of wide planning work easier, safer and more cost effective to buy a set of modern tools, which are usually attached tool box. In the future, to expand the choice, you can buy separate tools, additional complete sets and a tool box bigger. The gradual expansion of the tool kit will allow to stretch expenses and to be defined in a choice of really necessary tools.

Specialized tool shops are the only source of acquisition of some special tools, but regardless of the source, avoid cheap purchases, especially when choosing a screwdriver and replaceable face heads as term of their service for certain will appear short. The costs associated with the replacement and rehabilitation of low-cost instrument as a result will be incomparably greater than the cost of a one-time purchase of a quality product.

Care of the tool and storage

A good tool is a valuable investment, it is reasonable to make sure to keep it clean and constant readiness to work. After using the tool before you fold it to the storage location, always clean it thoroughly of dirt, grease and the remains of the metal particles. Never leave the tool scattered in the workplace. Upon completion of the space carefully check under the hood and under the vehicle for the presence of the forgotten tool.

For storage of tools such as screwdrivers, pliers, hammers, etc. ideal tool comb fixed in a convenient location on the wall of the garage. Sets of wrenches and replaceable face heads should be stored in metal boxes. Measuring tools should be stored out of reach of corrosion, dry and clean place.

Always pay attention to the working surfaces of the instrument. The impact of the striker hammer in the process exposed rasklepyvaniyu screwdriver eventually lose sharpening their stings. Do not skimp take some time to remove rasklepov and remediation of the cutting edges with sandpaper or a file. Irreversibly worn or damaged, replace the tool.

At careful leaving the tool will last for a very long period of time.

Workplace Equipments

If you have to conduct more serious work, than simple maintenance, you should take care of the preparation of a suitable working platform. An important requirement is roof or awning.

If possible, any disassembly procedures should be done on a clean, flat bench (table) comfortable height equipped with a vise. Sufficient is the presence of a vice with soft overlays on sponges, drop to 100 mm.

As mentioned above, on the job site must be equipped with a clean, dry place to store tools, lubricating fluids, cleaning agents, fillers, paints, etc.

As an indispensable instrument is electric, therefore the platform must be equipped with a power supply for its connection.

Finally, the workplace must always have an adequate supply of old newspapers and a clean lint-free cloth designed for cleaning the work area, tools and car parts.

Never perform any work on the open painted surface of the car, use protective overlays on wings, or cover the polished surfaces with old blankets.