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REPAIR MAINTENANCE OPERATION OF MOTOR VEHICLES
Nissan Micra (2002 model year)

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Nissan Micra
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Introduction
eleven About this Guide
Cars Nissan Micra K12 - Abstract
The vehicle identification number
Acquisition of spare parts
Technology services, tools and the workplace equipment
Poddomkrachivanie / hanging and an emergency transportation vehicle
Starting the engine from the auxiliary power supply
Automotive chemicals, oils and greases
Troubleshooting
Controls and operation receptions
Options and car routine maintenance
Engine
The engine cooling system, heating, ventilation and air conditioning
The power supply system and exhaust
Systems of an electric motor
Manual box of a gear change and clutch
Automatic Transmission
Drive shafts, steering knuckles and Hub assembly
Brakes
Suspension and steering
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Troubleshooting



Description diagnostics of electronic control systems and fault codes are given in Chapter Systems of an electric motor.

This section provides the most simple scheme of finding the causes of malfunctions and failures occurring in knots and car systems. Faults and their possible causes are divided into groups on the basis of a certain relationship to the component or system of a vehicle such as the engine cooling system, and the like, moreover, in the text are links to chapters and sections related to these problems.

Keep in mind that the successful completion of the search is determined to solve this problem a coherent set of knowledge of good and patient, systematic approach to the problem. Always move from simple to complex, to bring each check to the logic end and try not to miss the obvious fact - anyone can forget to fill fuel in the fuel tank or to leave for the night included lighting.

Finally, you should always try to make a clear picture of the problem and take appropriate steps to prevent recurrence. If an electrical failure occurred due to violation of the quality of contact, at the same time check the status of all other contacts, and the electrical connectors of the system. If the same fuse blows repeatedly, there is no sense in its further replacement - try to find out the cause of failure. Keep in mind that failure of a minor component can be a sign of malfunction of a critical node or an entire system.

Engine

The essential requirements for running any of the petrol engine are up serviceability of giving of air-fuel mixture in the cylinders and the adequacy of sparks on the spark plugs.

The first thing to make sure of serviceability of giving of fuel.

To determine whether the spark is formed, remove the spark plug and insert them into tips and separately to make weight. One should not hold the tip of the wire or the hands - use insulated pliers. Ask an assistant to start the engine. If the spark is absent, try to determine the cause of failure.

The engine does not turn when you try to run

  • The battery terminals are oxidized or loose mounting on them of tips of wires.
  • Discharged or faulty battery. If the tips of the wires are not oxidized and securely attached to the terminals of the battery, turn the ignition key to ?�ON?�, then turn on the headlights and / or windscreen wipers, - if they do not function - the battery is low.
  • Transmission inaccurately set to ?�P?� (AT) or neutral (Manual), or not fully depressed clutch.
  • The break in the chain of system startup.
  • Starter pinion gear wedged in the crown of the drive disc / flywheel.
  • Faulty magnetic switch starter.
  • Faulty starter.
  • Faulty ignition switch.

Engine cranks but does not start

  • Wrong is launched (see. Section Starting and stopping the engine, starting).
  • Faulty or disconnected engine immobilizer.
  • Defective safety switch of the fuel pump.
  • The fuel tank is empty or fueled substandard fuel.
  • Very dirty air filter. Vacuum leaks occur in the elements of the air supply system failure control fuel injection and ignition.
  • The battery is low (the engine is turned too slowly).
  • The battery terminals are oxidized or loose mounting on them of tips of wires.
  • Faulty fuel pump or damaged his relay - on hearing check if the pump when the ignition.
  • Damaged or excessively humidified ignition system components.
  • Worn or faulty spark plug or spark plug gap is incorrectly set.
  • The break in the chain of system startup.
  • Broken or disconnected wiring the ignition coil is loose or any of the terminals of the coil.
  • Faulty fuse ECU faulty any of gauges engine management system.
  • Low compression pressure.

The starter operates without cranking the engine

  • Conjuring starter pinion.
  • Worn or damaged gear teeth or flywheel starter / drive disk.

Difficult to cold start

See. See also Section A cold engine is started badly, it works unstably .

  • Low battery.
  • Broken serviceability of functioning of the power system components or electrical equipment.

Difficult to start a hot engine

See. See also Section warm engine is started badly, it works unstably .

  • Broken patency of the air filter.
  • Broken serviceability of functioning of the power system components or electrical equipment.
  • Fuel is not supplied to the fuel injectors.
  • Poor compression.

The engagement of the starter is too noisy or with difficulty

  • Worn or damaged gear teeth or flywheel starter / drive disk.
  • Lost or insufficiently tightened bolts starter.

Engine starts, but immediately stalls

  • Faulty engine immobilizer.
  • Faulty wiring or wires are loose at the terminals of the ignition coil or generator.
  • Broken serviceability of functioning components of the system or electrical power.
  • Violated the basic settings of the engine control unit (ECM).
  • There is a fault in the exhaust system and emission control (exhaust).
  • There have been losses of vacuum on the throttle case, the inlet pipeline or through vacuum hoses.

Violate the stability of the engine at idle

  • We have the loss of vacuum. Make sure of the reliability of a tightening of fixture, check the fact and quality of fastening on the unions on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a segment of the fuel hose - the presence of a hissing sound indicates a leak. Equally effective is the use of a soap solution to check.
  • Broken serviceability of functioning components of the system or electrical power.
  • Broken cross-valve system controlled crankcase ventilation (PCV).
  • Broken patency of the air filter.
  • The fuel pump does not supply sufficient fuel to the injectors.
  • Have the leak through the cylinder head gasket, - Measure the engine compression (see chap. Engine).
  • Worn cam lobe of the camshaft.

There have been gaps in the cylinders at idle

  • Fouled or defective spark plug or spark plug gap is incorrectly set.
  • There is a system component failure or electrical power.
  • Faulty I / O wiring.
  • Fueled substandard fuel or broken fuel filter permeability.
  • We have the loss of vacuum in the intake manifold or via hose connections.
  • Low or unevenly distributed compression in the cylinders.
  • Disrupt the engine management system.

There have been gaps in the cylinders of the engine when the vehicle is in gear

  • Blocked fuel filter, or there is a contamination of the food.
  • Defective or contaminated spark plug or spark plug gap is incorrectly set.
  • There is a system component failure or electrical power.
  • Faulty I / O wiring.
  • Defective components reduce emissions.
  • Low or unevenly distributed compression in the cylinders.
  • Faulty ignition system.
  • There have been losses of vacuum on the throttle case, the inlet pipeline or through vacuum hoses.

Engine stalls spontaneously

  • Disturbed adjust the idle speed.
  • Broken permeability of the fuel filter or the power supply system is wet or dirty.
  • There is a component failure / information gauges the power system.
  • Faulty system components reduce emissions.
  • Defective or contaminated spark plug or spark plug gap is incorrectly set.
  • There have been losses of vacuum on the throttle or through vacuum hoses.

Engine does not develop full power

  • There is a system component failure or electrical power.
  • Clogged air cleaner.
  • Defective spark plug or spark plug gap is incorrectly set.
  • Faulty ignition coil.
  • Fell level ATF (see chap. Adjustment and car routine maintenance).
  • To slip the clutch / AT.
  • Blocked fuel filter and / or power system hit the dirt / moisture.
  • Fueled substandard fuel.
  • Low or unevenly distributed compression in the cylinders.

Claps occur in the intake system or a shot in the exhaust system

  • Broken serviceability of functioning components of the system or electrical power.
  • There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system (destruction of insulators of spark plugs or damage to the I / O cables).
  • It needs adjusting the fuel injection system, or excessively worn components.
  • There have been losses of vacuum on the throttle case, the inlet pipeline or through vacuum hoses.
  • Jammed valves.
  • Out of order connect I / O wires.

At movement with acceleration or uphill there are detonation sounds

  • Fueled substandard fuel.
  • Broken serviceability of functioning components of the system or electrical power.
  • Installed spark plugs are not the type.
  • Arusha basic settings ECM.
  • Faulty knock sensor.
  • We have the loss of vacuum.

The engine continues to run after turning the key in position ?�OFF?�

  • An excessively high idle.
  • There is a fault or electrical components of the engine management system.
  • Faulty valve canister purge fuel vapor recovery system (EVAP).
  • The high operating temperature of the engine (coolant level dropped, faulty thermostat, the radiator is blocked or defective water pump).
  • Leakproof injectors.

Electric Motor

Reduced capacity or insufficient battery charge

  • Worn or damaged alternator drive belt, or adjustment of its tension is broken.
  • Insufficient level of the electrolyte or deeply discharged battery.
  • The battery terminals are oxidized or loose mounting on them of tips of wires.
  • The generator does not provide the required charging current.
  • The break in the chain of electrical charging circuit.
  • Short circuit on "weight" harness creates a constant leakage current generated by the battery.
  • There is an internal defect in the batteries.

Charging control lamp does not die away at increase in turns

  • Loose drive belt tension.
  • Faulty voltage regulator and / or a generator. Disconnect the wire (D +) on the back side of the generator and switch on the ignition. The following is to check the status of the voltage regulator of the generator.
  • Worn brush generator.
  • Damaged wire between the generator and the voltage regulator.
  • Faulty instrument cluster.

Charging control lamp does not light up when you turn the key in the ?�ON?� position

  • It has failed the test lamp.
  • Faulty Generator.
  • There is a defect in the printed circuit board, wiring inside the instrument cluster or lamp socket.

Charging control lamp does not go out when you turn the key in position ?�OFF?�

  • Breaking through the diodes.

Starter

Contact wiring harness must be secured and not oxidized!

  • If the starter does not turn, you should first make sure that the terminal ?��50 traction relay voltage is present (at least 10). At negative results check the condition of the wiring circuit current starter.
  • To check the health of a starter operation at full voltage of the battery, follow these steps:
    • Not including transmission, turn the key to ?�ON?�;
    • Jumper terminals 30 and 50 of a starter cable section not less than 4 mm 2.
  • If the starter works flawlessly, the cause of the fault to be found in the wires to the starter. If the starter does not work, it should be checked in the removed state.

Starter does not rotate when you turn the key on ?�START?�

  • The battery is low.
  • Jumper terminals 30 and 50 starter if it rotates check failed for an open wire to the ignition switch 50, and reassess the starter switch.
  • Continuity of supply, quality, or violated its terminal connections.
  • The weakening of the current as a result of violation of the quality of the contact or oxidation compounds.
  • There is no voltage at terminal 50 of the traction relay as a result of breakage of wiring or damage to the starter switch.

The starter rotates slowly and turns the crankshaft

  • The battery is low.
  • Flooded summer oil.
  • Difficult passage of current due to the poor quality of contacts.
  • The carbon brushes are not adjacent to the collector, jammed in the guide, worn, broken, oily or dirty.
  • Insufficient distance between brushes and collector.
  • Collector in the grooves or burned and zamaslilsya.
  • There is no voltage at terminal 50 (at least 8).
  • Broken bearing.
  • Faulty magnetic switch.

Starter "grasp", but provides only cranking jerks

  • Faulty drive gear.
  • Gear contaminated.
  • The ring gear is damaged disk drive.

Gear starter is disengaged from the flywheel / drive disc

  • Dirty or damaged components of the drive gear.
  • Faulty magnetic switch.
  • Return spring weakened or torn.

The starter continues to run after the release of the ignition key

  • Magnetic switch jammed - immediately switch off the ignition and replace the traction relay.
  • Not turned off the ignition, - disconnect the battery, replace the lock.

Power system

Excessive fuel consumption

  • Dirty or blocked air filter.
  • Insufficient tire inflation pressure or tire fitted the wrong size.
  • The engine has a mechanical damage. Check the compression ratio, in case of need make corresponding regenerative repair.
  • Excessively high idle speed and the maximum speed of the crankshaft.
  • There is a fault power system components, electrical and electronic controls.
  • Leaks in the air intake system.
  • There have been damaged in the exhaust system, and reduce exhaust emissions.

There have been leaks of fuel and / or the smell of gasoline

  • There have been a leak in the fuel supply lines and ventilation lines.
  • Overflowing fuel tank. Refuel only until automatic shut-off gun.
  • There have been leaks / evaporation of the lines of power supply systems and reduce exhaust emissions.

The engine does not start

  • If the starter does not operate the fuel pump (not hear the noise of his work). Lightly tap the pump housing to release the jammed item. Check the supply voltage to the pump (check the fuse and tightened the terminals corresponding to the wiring).
  • Faulty fuel pump relay.
  • Zalipla valve injectors. Check the injectors and replace if necessary. Check the supply voltage to the injectors.
  • There is no signal from the sensor plug or sensor ECT. Check the condition of its wiring, make a survey of system memory OBD II.
  • Damaged, leaking or clogged fuel lines, there are defects of hoses.
  • Clogged fuel filter.
  • In the intake tract as a result of leakage of excess air is drawn.
  • Damaged vacuum lines, or a violation of the integrity of their landing.
  • Damaged fuel pressure regulator - Check the residual pressure.
  • Damaged throttle position sensor (TPS).
  • No power to ECM.
  • Clogged tank vent line, clogged filter in the tank.
  • Shot down at the start of the fuel supply.

A cold engine is started badly, works unstably

  • The CO does not meet the regulatory requirements - make the appropriate measurement, check the idle speed.
  • Faulty sensor ECT.
  • The fuel pressure does not correspond to the desired value.
  • In the intake tract as a result of leakage of excess air is drawn.

Warm up the engine is started badly, works unstably

  • Leaky air intake system. Check the intake system. To do this, leave the engine idling and moisten places of seals and connections on the intake tract gasoline. If the number of turns for a short time increase, eliminate leaking place.
  • Faulty fuel pump check valve.
  • Leaks in fuel system.
  • Increased pressure in the fuel supply system.
  • Faulty system EVAP.
  • Clogged or crushed fuel return line to the tank.
  • Zalipla valve injectors. Check the injectors and replace if necessary. Check the supply voltage to the injectors.
  • There is no signal from the sensor plugs Hall or the coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the corresponding electrical wiring, make a survey of OBD II.
  • In the intake tract as a result of leakage of excess air is drawn.
  • Faulty pressure regulator - Check the residual pressure.
  • Faulty sensor TPS.
  • No power to ECM.

The engine works with faults

  • The compounds of the fuel pump wiring from time to time violated. Check the electrical connectors and fuel pump fuse, MAP sensor and the fuel pump relay.
  • Poor quality fuel vapor lock.
  • Poor fuel supply.
  • Clogged fuel filter.
  • Faulty fuel pump.
  • Faulty injectors.
  • Faulty oxygen sensor, breach in the chain of quality management or no mixture heated oxygen sensor.
  • Faulty TPS.
  • Damaged exhaust manifold or reception pipe exhaust system (exhaust gas leak there).
  • Faulty system EVAP.
  • Zalipla valve injectors. Check the injectors and replace if necessary. Check the supply voltage to the injectors.
  • There is no signal from the sensor plug Hall sensor or ECT. Check the wiring, make a survey for the presence of ECM memory fault codes.
  • In the intake tract as a result of leakage of excess air is drawn.
  • Damaged or leaking vacuum lines
  • Faulty pressure regulator - Check the residual pressure.
  • No power to ECM.

The engine works with faults in the transient and idle

  • Leaky air intake system. Check the intake system. Start the engine and moisten the suction connection of the components with gasoline tract. If the engine speed momentarily increases, eliminate the cause of leakage.
  • Incorrect adjustment of idling. Check the TPS and lambda adjustment.

Hot engine does not start

  • Incorrect adjustment of the content of CO. Check the contents of the SB and idling.
  • Too high fuel system pressure - check the pressure of fuel, if necessary replace a pressure regulator.
  • Clogged or bent return line between the pressure regulator and the fuel tank. Clean or replace the pipeline.
  • Faulty motor temperature sensor.
  • Leakproof power system.
  • Leakproof air intake tract.

Engine running after shutdown

  • Leaky injectors. Check the injectors.

Lubrication system

The indicator lamp does not light up when you turn the key in the ?�ON?� position

  • Faulty oil pressure switch. Turn on the ignition, disconnect the sensor wire and close it on "weight" - if the lamp lights, replace the sensor.
  • On the sensor is not energized, contacts corrode, - check the condition of the corresponding wiring.
  • Defective warning lamp.
  • Faulty instrument cluster.

The warning lamp does not go out after starting the engine

  • Oil overheated. If the warning light goes off when the gas supply is not required to do anything.

The warning lamp does not go out after a gas or lights while driving

  • Fell oil level.
  • There is a short circuit wiring the oil level sensor.
  • Faulty sensor.

Too low oil pressure at all speeds

  • Fell oil level.
  • Clogged strainer maslozabornika in the sump.
  • Worn oil pump.
  • Damaged crankshaft bearings.

Too low oil pressure at low engine speeds

  • Pressure relief valve stuck in the open position due to contamination.

Too high oil pressure at engine speeds above 2000 rev / min

  • Pressure reducing valve does not open due to contamination.

Cooling system

Overheat

  • Fell coolant level.
  • Worn or damaged drive belt broken water pump or adjustment of its tension.
  • Blocked internal channels of a radiator or contaminated (blocked) grille.
  • Faulty thermostat.
  • Broken or cracked blades of the impeller.
  • Faulty sensor switch (A / B) of the fan.
  • Faulty coolant temperature (coolant).
  • Faulty water pump.
  • Do not keep the pressure radiator cap, - make a test pressure cap.

Hypothermia

  • Faulty thermostat.
  • Inaccurate meter reading coolant temperature.

External coolant leak

  • Damaged or destroyed as a result of the aging of the material, or hoses are loose on their unions.
  • Spoiled water pump seals, - coolant seeping through the inspection hole in the pump housing.
  • There have been leaks of internal channels of a radiator or reservoir.
  • There have been leaking through the drain plug of the engine or clutch release cork water galleries.

Internal coolant leaks

Internal coolant leaks are usually detected by checking the state of the motor oil. Inspect the blade of the probe and the inner surface of the cover (covers) of cylinders on presence of traces of water and foaming oil.

  • Have the leak through the cylinder head gasket - Check the cooling system pressure.
  • There are cracks on the cylinder walls or in the casting head.

There is a loss of coolant

  • The system fueled an excessive amount of coolant.
  • Coolant boils as a result of overheating of the engine.
  • We have the internal and external coolant leaks.
  • Defective radiator cap, - check the pressure cap.

Broken coolant circulation

  • Do not functioning properly the water pump. The easiest way to ensure the functioning of the pump, pinching the upper radiator hose when running the engine at idle. If the hose is released, there is a push liquid inside the pump is functioning properly.
  • Broken cross-cooling systems - flush and refill it with fresh fluid. If necessary, remove the radiator and spend it obratnopotochnuyu washing.
  • Worn or damaged water pump drive belt is broken or adjustment of its tension.
  • Conjuring the thermostat.

Heater

The heater fan does not work

  • Faulty fuse e / motor of the fan.
  • Defective fan switch - check whether pressure to predrezistoram, remove and check the fan switch.
  • Faulty e / motor of the fan. Check whether it is applied voltage when the ignition switch is closed and the fan - if voltage is applied, replace the motor.

The heater fan does not work on one of the steps

  • Faulty predrezistor.

The heater does not turn off the regulator

  • Faulty switch.
  • Cables adjusting the mixing valve damaged or poorly motile.

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Clutch

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Coupling revolves (engine speed increase without an increase in vehicle speed)

When the clutch is engaged, a strong vibration

  • Zamaslen clutch disc. ???????????�?� ???�?�???�?�?????� ?? ?????????�?????�?� ???????�?????????� ?�???? ?????????????�???�????. Correct any leak detected.
  • Worn clutch disc splined hub (clutch). ???????????�?� ???�?�???�?�?????� ?? ?????????�?????�?� ???????�?????????� ?�???? ?????????????�???�????.
  • Bend the pressure plate / clutch basket or a flywheel. ???????????�?� ???�?�???�?�?????� ?? ?????????�?????�?� ???????�?????????� ?�???? ?????????????�???�???? ?? ???�?�?????????�.

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  • ?????????�?�???�?????� ???????? ?????????�?�?�?�?? ?? ?????????�???? ???�???�???�?�. Check and replace if necessary.
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Squeal or roar arise at full inclusion of coupling (the pedal is released)

  • Conjuring the clutch release bearing. ???????????�?� ???�?�???�?�?????� ?? ?????????�?????�?� ???????�?????????� ???????????????????�. Remove all burrs and burrs, and lubricate the bearings before replacing.

Squeal or roar arise at full you turn off the clutch (pedal depressed)

The clutch pedal is depressed to the floor after it is released,

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Manual box of a gear change (Manual transmission)

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  • Worn input shaft bearing.
  • Damaged bearing pinion driven shaft.
  • Worn bearings of the intermediate shaft.
  • Worn or damaged washer adjust the axial play of the intermediate shaft.

Extraneous noise take place in any position Manual transmission

  • Any of the above reasons and / or:
  • ?� ?�?????? ?�?�?�???�?? ???�???????�?�?�???�?????� ?????�???�?�???�???? ?�???�?????????????????????????? ???�???�?� (?????�?� ?�???? ?????????�????).

, Noises occur on any specific transfer

  • Worn, damaged or chipped teeth of the gears of the transmission.
  • Worn or damaged synchronizer of the program.

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  • Between the boat and engine box hit the dirt box or shifted with respect to the engine.

When changing gear there are complications

  • Not fully depressed (off) clutch.
  • Damaged pull switch, mount it weakened or broken adjustment. Perform a thorough inspection of the components, if necessary, replace defective.

Have the transmission oil leak

  • In Manual transmission fueled an excessive amount of gear oil. If necessary, drain the excess.
  • Needs replacing seals differential.

Automatic transmission (AT)

Given the complexity of the design AT diagnose its faults and repair the components is preferably carried out in the workshop of car-care center.

Common problems associated with the operation of the switching mechanism

  • Among the failures related to the violation of traction control switch include the following:
    • Starting the engine is possible with the provisions of transmission other than "P" and "N";
    • Indicator of position of transmission differ from really chosen transfer;
    • The car moves at the transmission established in position "P" or "N";
    • Gears are shifted with difficulty or arbitrarily.
  • Make adjustment of draft of switching gears.

Transmission revolves, is switched hardly, publishes extraneous noise or does not provide the vehicle when you install one of the programs

  • There are many possible causes of the problems listed in the title, but under the competence of the mechanic-fan gets only one of them - wrong level of transmission fluid (ATF).
  • Before you drive off the car in the car service shop check the level and condition ATF. Adjust the ATF level or change it.

Have the leak transmission fluid (ATF)

  • ATF has a deep red color. Traces of its leaks should not be confused with signs of motor oil which can be demolished in the transmission housing ram air.
  • To identify and locate the source of the leak first remove the transmission from a boat all traces of dirt and grease. Use appropriate surface cleaner and / or make a steam cleaning. Then, take a short trip by car at low speed (to traces of leaks not communicated running stream far from its source). Stop Poddomkratte car and by visual inspection, set the source of the leak. More often than not, as such, are:
    • Sump transmission - tighten the fixing bolts and / or replace a lining of the pallet;
    • Tube Gulf ATF, - replace the rubber seal at the site of entry of the tube into the crankcase Transmission;
    • Lines ATF, - couplings tighten or replace the line;
    • Ventilation tube - full mission and / or it is exposed to water.

ATF has brown color or smells of burning

  • Insufficient level of ATF.

Not included kickdown mode when pressing the pedal (not downshift)

  • Fell level ATF.
  • Faulty engine management system.
  • Faulty sensor switch or wiring.
  • Disturbed adjustment drive a cable of the selector.

The engine does not start at any position of the selector, or run in a position other than "P" and ?�N?�

  • Disturbed adjustment gauge-switch of the permission of start.
  • Broken serviceability of functioning of the engine management system.
  • Broken cable adjustment selector.

Transmission revolves, jerks or noise when shifting gears. The car does not move when you switch ?�D?� or ?�R?�

  • Fell level ATF.
  • Faulty sensor or its wiring.
  • Broken serviceability of functioning of the engine management system.

Bridges

Background noise

  • Normal traffic noise - not amenable to adjustment.
  • The noise of tires - check the condition of tread and tire inflation pressure.
  • Worn or damaged wheel bearings or weakened the force of tightening.

Vibrations

  • Check the condition of the wheel bearings, alternately poddomkrachivaya corresponding angle of a vehicle and rotating the wheel manually. Listen thus to sounds coming from the bearing. Remove bearings and check their condition.

Oil leaks

  • Damaged seals differential.

brake system

Before coming to a final conclusion that there is a problem with the brake system, make sure the tires are in good condition and inflated to the required pressure is not broken alignment of the front wheels and the vehicle is not loaded unevenly.

Increased brake pedal travel

  • Faulty work path braking path, - check the system for leaks.

The brake pedal springs and fails

  • The braking path is air - vent the system.
  • Fell the liquid level in the tank GTZ - make adjustments, bleed the system.
  • The formation of vapor bubbles. It manifested mainly in the heavy load on the brakes. Replace brake fluid, bleed the system.

Reducing the effect of braking, pedal fails

  • Leakproof hydraulic path.
  • Damaged sleeves or working in the main brake cylinder.
  • Defective rubber gasket. Repair support.

Poor braking, despite the great effort you press the pedal

  • Zamasleny brake linings.
  • Installed improper or hardened Pads.
  • Defective brake booster.
  • Worn brake pads.

When braking the vehicle leads to the side

  • Tire inflation pressure is not correct.
  • Unevenly worn treads.
  • Zamasleny brake linings.
  • On one axis have different brake pads.
  • Excessively worn brake pads.
  • Dirty mine supports.
  • Supports corroded - make replacement.
  • Unevenly worn pads.

Spontaneous braking

  • Clogged compensation hole in the brake master cylinder (GTZ).
  • Insufficient clearance between the actuating rod and piston GTZ.

Brakes become very hot during driving

  • Clogged compensation hole in the brake master cylinder.
  • Insufficient clearance between the actuating rod and piston GTZ.

Brakes shiver

  • Established pads inappropriate type.
  • Brake Disc Fitting corroded.
  • An excessively large run-out of the brake disc.

Brake pads away from the brake disc, the wheel is rotated manually with difficulty

  • Corrosion in cylinders of brake calipers. Repair or replace the caliper.

Uneven wear pads

  • Pads installed the wrong type. Replace pads.
  • Supports corroded - make replacement.
  • Difficult to stroke.
  • Leakproof path of brake system.

The wedge-shaped brake pad wear

  • The brake disk rotates not in parallel a support.
  • Supports corroded - make replacement.
  • Broken up serviceability of functioning of the piston.

The creaking of brakes

  • Often the reason in atmospheric influence (humidity). If squeaking occurs after a long stay at high humidity and then vanishes, nothing else to do.
  • Pads installed the wrong type.
  • The brake disk rotates not in parallel a support.
  • Contaminated mine support.
  • Bend the spring mounting pad.
  • Stretch compression springs.

Pulsating brake pedal

  • Symptom normal operation of ABS.
  • An excessively large run-out of the brake disc.
  • The brake disk rotates not in parallel a support.

ABS warning lamp lights up while driving

  • Insufficient supply voltage (below 10 V). Check the voltage. Check whether the warning lamp goes out after starting the engine generator. If everything is in order, check the alternator drive belt.
  • There is a fault ABS, - check the condition and reliability of fixing the terminal connections of mass return of the pump (in hydromodulator).

Suspension and steering

The car takes the motion to one side

  • Unevenly inflated tires.
  • There is a tire defect.
  • Excessively worn suspension components, or steering.
  • Requires alignment of the front wheels.
  • Prihvachen front brakes.

There are jerks, twitches or vibration

  • Broken wheel balancing or appeared oval disk.
  • Worn wheel bearings, weakened the force of their tightening or adjustment is broken.
  • Worn or damaged rack-absorbers or other suspension components.

There is too much rocking car / "burying" of his nose to the corners or when braking

  • Defective strut.
  • Damaged suspension components.

Too tight turns the steering wheel

  • Power Steering does not develop the required capacity.
  • Improperly inflated tires.
  • Inadequate lubrication of joints steering gear.
  • Broken alignment of the front wheels.

There is excessive backlash steering

  • Relent tightening the front wheel bearings.
  • Excessively worn suspension components, or steering.

There is excessive wear protectors (not in one any area)

  • Improperly inflated tires.
  • Broken wheel balancing.
  • Damaged wheels.
  • Excessively worn suspension components, or steering.

There is excessive tread wear on the outside edge

  • Improperly inflated tires.
  • Too sharp turns are made.
  • Broken adjustment of corners of installation of forward wheels (excessive convergence).
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There is excessive tread wear on the inner edge

  • Improperly inflated tires.
  • Broken adjustment of corners of installation of forward wheels (divergence).
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There is a local tire wear

  • Broken wheel balancing.
  • Damaged or bent wheels.
  • There is a tire defect.

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Slippage

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In the purification of residual water immediately gather in drops

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  • ?�?�?�?????????�?? ???�?�???�???? ???�?�???�???� ?????�?�?� ???????????�?????????????? ???�??????.
  • Wiper arm is twisted, the brush is not exactly adjacent to the glass.

Untreated surfaces

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  • Overloading the vehicle. ?????????�?????�?� ???????�?????????� ???????�???�???????� ???�?�?????? ??????.

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  • ?????????�?????�?� ???�?????�???????????? ???�?�???�?�?�.
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