Removing the crankshaft

To remove the crankshaft, remove the engine from the car.

Since the motor must be dismantled completely, the following guidelines for complete disassembly of the engine:

- Remove the gearbox from the engine. On vehicles with a manual transmission with a screwdriver inserted into the flywheel, the flywheel lock in a fixed position and remove the flywheel bolts. To secure the flywheel is possible to drill two holes in the metal strip, and using the coupling bolts Screw it to the opposite side of the flywheel (Fig. 70) and unscrew bolts of the flywheel;

- Before removing the flywheel center punch, mark the relative position of the pressure plate and flywheel to avoid errors during the installation. Remove from the front of the engine crankshaft pulley bolt;

- A car with automatic transmission unscrew the drive pulley.

Further studies conducted by dismantling the engine at its front end. Perform the following steps:

- Loosen the bracket bolts 1 (fig. 71) the engine mounting at the top of the engine;

- Turn away beneath it tensioner 2 for the V-belt (3 screws);

- Disconnect the tip of the wire, "mass" cable clamp to secure the cable, unscrew the two screws on the generator and remove the generator 3;

- Label the screws (six screws of different lengths) and remove the support bracket of the generator and the power steering pump 4;

- Unscrew the oil dipstick guide tube 6 (see. Fig. 69), pull it out of the cylinder and remove the O-ring 25:

- Remove the bolts (Fig. 72, arrow) of the suction chamber air intake manifold;

- Unscrew the bolt coolant pump pulley and harness the air suction chamber (remove the hose, disconnect the plug connector throttle position sensor, remove the clamp from the harness and remove the "mass" cable);

- Remove the brackets air suction chamber. First, remove the piping exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) from the throttle body. Then loosen the three bolts Air suction chamber of the cylinder head and remove the air suction chamber with the gasket;

- Remove the cooling pump motor, which disconnect the thermostat housing going to the hose, disconnect the plug connector and remove the pump from the bottom of the rubber mount. After removing the pump, remove the pump bracket;

- Disconnect the EGR valve plug connector, open the two clips to release the harness and disconnect the next plug connector located nearby;

- Disconnect plug connector coolant temperature sensor and fan thermal switch and unscrew a bolt of fastening of an arm;

- Disconnect plug blocks the oil temperature sensor 1 (Fig. 73), the oil pressure switch 2 (black and yellow cable) to 140 kPa and the oil pressure switch 3 (brown and blue cables) 30 kPa;

- Remove the four screws on the guide wires of high voltage and remove the fuel distribution manifold with the injectors (fuel supply distributor with nozzles);

- Unscrew the two screws and remove the valve switching and the intake valve of the secondary air system;

- Remove the bolts (Fig. 74) and remove the intake manifold along with the lifting eye of the engine;

- Unscrew the thermostat housing (Fig. 75);

- Unscrew the nut and remove the EGR valve with bracket (loosen the cap nut, unscrew the 2 screws);

- Remove the cover and the cylinder head gasket. In this release the fuel;

- Unscrew ten bolts and remove the top cover plate of the engine accessory drive. Remove the chain tensioner, which is placed on the side of the cylinder head;

- Mark (preferably color) on the outside of the chain camshaft drive of the direction of rotation;

- Remove the six bolts from the cylinder and five bolts of the oil sump and remove (on the back side of the engine) flange sealing ring of the crankshaft. The sealing ring is desirable to replace the new one;

- Loosen the sixteen screws (Fig. 76) in the cylinder block, the three bolts on the oil casing, one bolt - from the bracket and remove the bottom protective cover accessory drive motor;

- Remove the camshaft drive chain and other drive components (see Fig. Sect. 2.7.);

- Remove the cylinder head (see. P. 2.3.1);

- Disconnect the coolant hose from the pump and the cooling system of the cylinder, remove the gasket, undo the bolts oil cooler and remove it along with the coolant hoses. Make sure that the coolant does not leak;

- Remove the oil filter gasket. If necessary, remove the two oil pressure switch 1 (Fig. 77).

- Remove the knock sensor 8 (see. Fig. 69) and a speed sensor 22 of the crankshaft;

- Lock the flywheel crankshaft lock (see. Fig. 70) and remove the bolt crankshaft damper.

If you want to remove the intermediate shaft:

- Unscrew the two screws (fig. 78), single-chain tensioner;

- Lock the crankshaft lock, unscrew the bolt in the center of the intermediate shaft sprocket and remove an asterisk together with a chain (after having marked the direction of the chain). Chain guide can also be removed;

- Remove the four screws on the intermediate shaft and remove it;

- Remove the coolant pump together with the pulley;

- Remove the oil sump (see. Sect. 4.1);

- Unscrew the two screws and remove the drive shaft of the oil pump. Then remove the drive shaft (Fig. 79);

- Remove the oil pump (see. Sect. 4.2.1);

- If you want to remove only the crankshaft, the pistons and rods can remain inside the cylinder. In this case, in turn, label and remove the connecting rod bearing caps, and leave them in the collection with inserts. Otherwise, remove the pistons and connecting rods (see. Sect. 2.4.1). Remember that to use "pliable bolts" always should be changed;

- Measure the axial free stroke crankshaft. To do this, the front of the cylinder rack indicator so that the indicator leg abuts the flange of the front end of the crankshaft (Fig. 80). Use a screwdriver to push the crankshaft side, and set the instrument to zero and then move the shaft in the other direction. The arrow shows the unit axial free lift shaft, which must be no more than 0.25 mm. If you move more, then bring it back to normal, replacing the old half-rings or by installing the new half-ring of increased thickness.

Average support (bearing number 5) has a top and bottom persistent half rings 4 and 10 (see. Fig. 82), which regulates the axial free stroke crankshaft. Also, two half rings available on the other side of the main bearing caps and cylinder block; in the absence of the meter axial free stroke can be measured using a probe (Fig. 81) on the secondary crank pin, between the bearing flange of the connecting rod, where bearings are located half-ring and the surface of the cheeks of the crankshaft;

- Remove the bolts of the flange at the front of the engine and remove the flange. In the flange is a sealing ring, which should immediately knock;

- Gradually crosswise unscrew bolts 1 (fig. 82) of the crankshaft bearing caps 5 and remove them one by one. Make sure the covers are labeled corresponding numbers. The numbering of the bearing cap spending on the part of the motor pulley units;

- Remove the bottom inserts (?�� 1 to 7) bearing the crank journals and put them together with the relevant bearing caps. The lower crankshaft bearing inserts have no grooves on the inner surface. They can not make any fitting operations. When scoring, the risks of delamination or replace with new pads;

- Remove the crankshaft bearing housings;

- Remove the top loose leaves and put them with the corresponding bearing caps. Upper ear crankshaft bearings are lubrication grooves;

- Remove the bottom persistent half ring of the middle support (with bearing number 5).