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Adjustment and routine maintenance
general information Tips for Giving "become attached" fixture Before embarking on the give, become attached threaded fasteners should be plenty of penetrating oil to soak in for some time. Soaking in oil softens corrosive deposits, which greatly facilitates the further procedure loosening nuts or eversion bolt / screw. Destroy corrosive deposits can be as sharp hammer blows dealt on the head of the bolt.
Give a convenient device for mounting a stroke become attached drive, which can be equipped as a head end and a nozzle in the form of the tip of a screwdriver. In severe cases, it can help warm the body component, which is screwed into the unrecoverable bolt / screw (or nut body) with a blowtorch, torch gas welding, etc. However, upon heating components made of aluminum alloys should not be forgotten that the melting point of aluminum is much lower than that of steel - do not overdo it. If you become attached to release the nut fasteners can not be any of the above methods should be careful in using a hacksaw to make her inscription side (parallel to the axis of the fasteners), and then break the nut with a chisel, taking care not to accidentally damage the threads of the bolt / stud.  | In the case of cutting the bolt / stud is flush with the surface of the component to retrieve the fragment will need a special extractor, - follow the manufacturer's instructions. Complete with extractors usually come with a set button dies and taps (see. Accompanying illustration). |
Damaged threads can then be restored with the help of button dies or taps of a suitable size. If the thread in the fastening hole is damaged so much that can not be repaired, should be increased with the help of a drill hole, then cut it in a new thread suitable tap. Alternatively, if necessary, keep the original size of the thread can be installed in the hole a helical insert. Studs  | The simplest method is zakontrivanie eversion stud at its free end two nuts (see. Accompanying illustration). Then, like a bolt pin is inverted, and the key is put on the bottom of the nuts. |
In addition, it produced a set of special tools for the extraction of studs - ask in shops for auto parts. Seals Removing the seals are usually made by poddevaniya them using a flathead screwdriver or other suitable tool. It should be some caution not to damage the contact surface of the component to / from which the oil seal is installed. Subject to unambiguous replacement gland may also be removed by screwing in its end surface a few screws. Then gland removed for tapping their heads by gripping pliers.
Before installing a new oil seal is required to lubricate its lips. Unless otherwise specified instruction, the gland is always set to the side sealing lips of the cavity. When dressing cup on the trunnion shafts care should be taken not to damage the sponges on the sharp edges of keyways or splines. For this dangerous part of the journal is necessary to wrap tape. Installation of a new oil seal is made by means of a wooden bar, socket wrench or a piece of pipe of suitable diameter. Ensure that the jaws of the gland are located in a horizontal plane relative to the axis of the stud, or may occur buckling gland, leading to the development of leaks. If the depth of planting gland otherwise indicated, it should be mounted flush with the outer surface of the respective component. Gaskets By separating the two sealed planted each other components (e.g., head and cylinder block) should not be administered lever between their mating surfaces. This is a gross mistake and is fraught with irreversible damage to the sealing surfaces, in particular if the components are made from soft aluminum alloy. Components can be dissected by tapping on the perimeter joint hammer with soft brisk or conventional hammer through a wooden block. Before installing a new lining both mating surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned of the old gasket material and traces of sealant. Make sure that the replacement pad is responsible for its old parameters and properly applied in the fixing holes and technological components to be joined. Cork and paper gasket when subject to shrinkage and before installing after long-term storage should be soaked in water. Bearings and Bushings If the special stripper for extracting bearing / bushing is not available, an equivalent can often quite successfully made from the material at hand. Bearings are often removed from their shafts / axes by precautionary tapping alternately on opposite sides (use a hammer and a knockout). In the absence of a suitable hand press sleeve can be fixed by clamping it together with its component in a vice. Vices can use also for the extraction sleeve. This requires appropriate sized spacers, one of which is actually resting in the sleeve and a second, larger - in the surface of the component. Instead of the grip you can use a large enough and strong clamp. The simplest tool for removing and installing the plugs can be made of the long bolt, two washers (small and large), nuts and tubular spacers (see. Accompanying illustration). Rubber bushings and bushing mounted in blind holes are removed with a special, masons used bolt flared type (Rawlbolt Loxin). Densely plant appropriate size bolt into the sleeve. Tightly screw it into the sleeve. Now the sleeve can be removed for a bolt with a hammer with sliding brisk or a pair of arms. Planted in blind holes sleeve can also be extracted using hydraulic force. Having filled the hole lubricated bushings, enter into the hole tight enough incoming and start a drift zastukivaet her inside. This sleeve under the hydraulic pressure starts to come out from the hole to the outside. Cranking There are many situations where there is a need for cranking to bring it to a specific position (eg when setting the ignition timing, check valve timing, etc.). To facilitate the rotation of the engine, remove the spark plugs from it - it will remove the compression pressure.
The easiest way to crank using a replaceable head end (drive) or Allen wrench to be worn on the crankshaft pulley nut. The shaft should rotate in the direction of normal rotation. For vehicles with Manual transmission can crank the engine by putting the transmission in top gear and pushing the car. Alternatively the car can be raised above the ground and by selecting a higher gear, cranking out one of the driving wheels forwards by hand. Also, the crankshaft can be reduced in the near future to the desired position by short inclusions of a starter. Then the position of the shaft is adjusted by turning the crankshaft pulley nut for.
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