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Removing the crankshaft
To remove the crankshaft, remove the engine from the car. Since the motor must be dismantled completely, the following guidelines for complete disassembly of the engine: - Remove the gearbox from the engine;
| Fig. 70. Blocking lock flywheel
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- A car with a manual transmission with a screwdriver inserted into the flywheel flywheel lock in a fixed position and remove the flywheel bolts. For reliable freezing flywheel can use the lock (see. Fig. 70), then unscrew the bolts of the flywheel; - Before removing the flywheel center punch, mark the relative position of the pressure plate and flywheel to avoid errors during the installation; - Turn away from the front of the engine crankshaft pulley bolt; - A car with automatic transmission unscrew the drive pulley. - Remove the cylinder head (see. P. 3.3.1), together with the inlet and the exhaust manifold;
| Fig. Details of the drive mechanism 106. The timing 1 - bolts 55 Nm; 2 - bolt 20 Nm; 3 - Clamp the engine mount; 4 - the top of the protective cover; 5 - roller tensioner; 6 - dust cap; 7 - bolts 10 Nm; 8 - the lower part of the protective cover; 9 - pulley the coolant pump; 10 - ribbed belt; 11 - a flywheel; 12 - V-belt; 13 - a pulley of the pump of the cooling system; 14 - bolt 25 Nm; 15 - the crankshaft pulley; 16 - bolt 25 Nm; 17 - the lever of poly V-belt tensioner
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- Unscrew the bolt 14 (see. Fig. 106) and remove the pulley 13, water pump and lower the cover 8 toothed belt; - Mark (preferably color) on the outer side of the toothed belt its direction of rotation; - Loosen the nut belt tensioner and remove the timing belt from pulleys and tensioner;
A warning After removing the toothed belt camshaft can not rotate. |
- Unscrew and remove the oil pan (see. Sect. 4.1); - Remove the oil pump (see. P. 4.2.1); - If you want to remove only the crankshaft, the pistons and rods can remain inside the cylinder. In this case, in turn, label and remove the connecting rod bearing caps, and leave them in the collection with inserts. Otherwise, remove the pistons and connecting rods (see. P. 2.4.1). Remember that to use "pliable bolts" always should be changed;
| Fig. 80. Check axial freewheel of the crankshaft using a measuring instrument
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| Fig. 104. Cylinder block disassembled 1 - bearing number 1, 2, 4 and 5; 2 - bolts of a cover; 3 - bearing caps; 4 - bearing number 3; 5 - persistent half ring on the bearing cover; 6 - ring gear speed sensor crankshaft; 7 - bolt 10 Nm (tighten another 90 ?�); 8 - the crankshaft; 9 - persistent half rings of the cylinder
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- Measure the axial free stroke crankshaft. To do this, the front of the cylinder rack indicator so that the indicator leg abuts the flange of the front end of the crankshaft (see. Fig. 80). Use a screwdriver to slide in the direction of the crankshaft and set the instrument to zero and then to move the shaft in the other direction. The arrow shows the unit axial free lift shaft, which must be no more than 0.25 mm. If the move is more, it should be considered when building and bring it back to normal, replacing the old half-rings or by installing the new half-ring of increased thickness. Inserts 4 (see. Fig. 104) bearing number 3 have two upper and two lower 5 9 persistent half rings, which regulate the axial free running of the crankshaft;
| Fig. 81. Measuring the axial freewheel crankshaft probe
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- In the absence of the meter axial free stroke can be measured using a probe (see. Fig. 81), bearing on average, between the flange of the bearing rod, wherein bearings are located half rings and the surface of the crankshaft;
| Fig. 136. The individual elements of the front of the cylinder block 1 - a cover of the gland; 2 - bolt 20 Nm; 3 - crankshaft front oil seal; 4 - gland intermediate shaft; 5 - bolt 25 Nm; 6 - a cover of the gland of the intermediate shaft; 7 - O-shaped sealing ring; 8 - an intermediate shaft; 9 - a bolt 10 Nm; 10 - a lining
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- Unscrew bolts 2 (fig. 136) of fastening and uncover 1 in front of the engine. The flange is a sealing ring, which should be immediately clear, since it must be replaced;
| Fig. 137. Individual elements of the rear of the cylinder block 1 - the adjusting pin; 2 - a lining; 3 - Cover; 4 - intermediate plate of the engine; 5 - flywheel; 6 - bolt 60 Nm (tighten another 90 ?�), the replacement is always
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- Remove the intermediate plate 4 (Fig. 137) of the engine. Guide plate mounting studs; - Unscrew the cover bolts of the flange and remove the flange with O-ring. O-ring can immediately knock out, as it should always be changed; - Gradually crosswise unscrew bolts 2 (see. Fig. 104) covers 3 crankshaft bearings 8, and remove them one by one. Make sure the covers are labeled corresponding numbers. The numbering of the bearing cap spending on the part of the motor pulley units; - Remove bearing shells crank journals and put them together with the relevant bearing caps. The lower crankshaft bearing inserts have a groove on the inner surface. They can not make any fitting operations. When scoring, the risks of delamination or replace with new pads; - Label (preferably color) of each rear side of the insert; - Remove from the average crankshaft bearing two top persistent half ring 5 (see. Fig. 104). They also should be marked in order to properly install the assembly; - Remove the crankshaft bearing housings; - Remove the remaining loose leaves from the crankcase of the engine and put them together with other liners and covers; - Remove the bottom persistent half rings 9 from the middle of the bearing.
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