Power supply system

General information and precautions

The power supply system comprises a generator voltage regulator and the battery. Working together, these devices provide the power of electricity consumers, as elements of the ignition, lights, radio, and others.

On cars fitted alternators.

When installing additional electrical equipment, make sure that the power generator was enough to power the equipment. The main elements

generator is the rotor, a stator, a rectifier brush collector, electronic voltage regulator, bearing and belt pulley.

The generator drive belt carried by the engine crankshaft.

The generator is a three-phase synchronous electric car with electromagnetic excitation. To convert alternating current into direct current generator is integrated in the rectifier diodes.

The voltage is regulated integrated electronic voltage regulator.

When the generator is an electric current flowing through the field winding creates around the poles of the rotor flux. When the rotor under each stator tooth passes the south, the north poles of the rotor - the working magnetic flux passing through the stator teeth, changes in size and voltage. The alternating magnetic flux in the stator winding generates an electromotive force. The wedge shape of the pole pieces of the rotor is selected in such a way to provide an electromotive force waveform close to a sine wave.

At high rotor speeds

generator when the generator voltage is greater than 13,6-14,6 In, the voltage regulator is locked and the current through the field winding does not pass. The voltage generator falls, the regulator opens and again passes a current through the field winding. The higher the speed of the rotor of the generator, the longer the controller locked state, therefore, the more decreases the output voltage of the generator. The process of locking and unlocking the controller comes with a high frequency, so the fluctuations in the output voltage of the generator imperceptible, almost can consider it permanent, maintained at 13,6-14,6 V.

When checking the generator, as well as the operation of the vehicle is necessary to observe a number of rules that do not derive from the generator system:

- Do not operate the generator with the generator disconnected from the battery clip. Without a battery in the vehicle electrical system having dangerous surge pulses when disconnecting any power consumers. These surge voltages can damage the electronics of the car, including a voltage regulator and diode rectifier unit generator;

- Check the efficiency of the generator is not to spark even the short-term connection "plus" generator terminals with "weight". In this case, through the diodes significant current flows and are damaged. Monitor the voltage of the generator can only be a voltmeter;

- The battery negative terminal must always be connected to "weight" of the car, and the positive - with a clip generator. Wrong (reverse) switch batteries immediately cause the passage of high current through the diodes of the generator, and they will fail;

- It does not check diodes pressure more than 12 or Megger, as he is too high-voltage diodes and they at check will be punched (a short circuit). When checking the insulation of the wiring Megger necessary to disconnect all wires from the generator;

- When electric welding of any parts of the body need to disconnect the wires from the generator and battery;

- Check the chain and electrical components necessary to troubleshoot the engine stopped and the battery disconnected.

Check

If there is a fault in the charging circuit, check the following:

- Securing reliable power wires to the terminals of the battery (make sure they are clean and secure mounting);

- The density of the electrolyte in the battery (if the density is low, charge the battery);

- Wiring of the generator and the reliability of its fixing;

- The condition and tension of the alternator drive belt;

- Tightening of the generator;

- Noise, listened from the generator after the engine starts.

With the ignition off, check with a voltmeter the voltage at the terminals of the battery by connecting it to a conclusion "B" of the generator. The voltage should be about 12 V.

To check the charging system assemble the circuit according to Fig. 13.4. When the ignition is off, check the voltage between "mass" and the terminal generator. If the voltmeter shows no voltage, then the generator is defective. Turn the key in the ignition switch in the position and check the voltage. If the voltmeter shows no voltage, then the generator is defective or wires. If the voltage close to the battery voltage (12 V), connect the output of with the rear bracket of the generator and check the voltage. If the voltage shown by the voltmeter, less than 12 V, the voltage regulator is defective. To check the voltage regulator with no load, make sure that the battery is fully charged, connect an ammeter and voltmeter to the scheme in Fig. 13.4. With the ignition off, the voltage shown by the voltmeter should be zero.

Turn on the ignition, with the voltmeter reading should be 1-3 in the lower voltage at the battery terminals. If the voltmeter reading is equal to the voltage at the battery terminals, then the generator is defective. Close conclusions ammeter jumper, start up the engine and remove the jumper.

Increase the engine speed to 2500 ^min -1 and read the ammeter and voltmeter. The current that is displayed by an ammeter, shall be equal to 5 A, the voltage - (14,7 + 0,3) V (at 20 ?� C).

To check the current and voltage produced by the generator, disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery and connect the ammeter and voltmeter in accordance with the scheme shown in Fig. 13.5.

Attach the wire to the negative terminal of the battery, start up the engine and turn on the lights. Gradually increase the speed of the crankshaft of the engine and watch the voltmeter. The charging system is OK, if the voltage exceeds the battery voltage and an ammeter shows the current flow.

Generator

Generator Specifications

Refitting

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Unscrew the adjusting screw (Fig. 13.6).

Disconnect and release the wire from the clamp.

Remove the alternator drive belt.

Remove the nut bolts of the generator and remove the generator.

Install the generator and screw the nut onto the coupling bolt. Screw the adjusting bolt.

Install the alternator drive belt and adjust its tension.

Connect the connectors to the generator.

Attach the wire to the negative terminal of the battery.

Replacement brush

Remove the generator.

Remove the three screws that secure the back cover of the generator.

Soldering iron 200W heat back cover with bearing housing for 3-4 minutes or hot air is blown over a long time (Fig. 13.7). In conclusion, it is necessary to heat the bearing housing to a temperature of 50-60 ?� C without heating the other parts.

Not allowing to cool the rear cover, remove the front cover with the rotor, inserting a screwdriver blade between the front cover and the stator core. Be careful not to damage the stator winding. Make sure that the snap ring back cover is in place. Clean the contact rings of a rotor with a soft cloth slightly moistened with a solvent.

Remove the screw fastening plate voltage regulator and brush holder. Remove the nut output "B", remove the washer.

To release the plate voltage regulator Unsolder connecting wires from the rectifier. The soldering should be carried out quickly to due to overheating is not faulty rectifier.

Remove the plate voltage regulator and brush holder. Unsolder old brushes and solder new. After installing the new control line brushes wear limit they should be at a distance of 2-3 mm from the periphery of the brush holder (Fig. 13.8).

Set the plate voltage regulator and solder the connecting wires. Place the washer and screw the nut output "B".

Gently press the brush, fix their position with a thin rod or a drill bit by pushing it through the hole in the rear cover. The new brushes are special openings, which include lock.

Make sure that the rear bearing snap ring is in the groove of the bearing (Fig. 13.9). Heat the rear bearing cover as well as being removed, install the front cover and the rotor.

Replace the three screws that secure the covers.

Pull the latch holding the brush in the retracted position.

Place the generator on a vehicle.

Repair of the generator with a complete disassembly

Remove the generator from the car.

Remove the pulley nut and washer (Fig. 13.10). During unscrewing the nut to lock the pulley against rotation squeeze bracket old drive belt.

Remove the pulley, impeller (if the impeller is mounted separately on the shaft), spacer sleeve and a Belleville washer.

Remove the three screws that secure the back cover of the generator.

Soldering iron 200W heat back cover with bearing housing for 3-4 minutes or Blow hot air for a longer time (see. Fig. 13.7). In conclusion, it is necessary to heat the bearing housing to a temperature of 50-60 ?� C without heating the other parts.

Not allowing to cool the rear cover, remove the front cover with the rotor, inserting a screwdriver blade between the front cover and the stator core. Be careful not to damage the stator winding.

Tapping beat out the rotor from the front bearing.

Remove the nut output "B" and remove the washer. Remove the back cover of the three screws securing the rectifier, regulator and brush holder plate. Remove the cover from the stator, rectifier and other details.

If electrical testing will be carried out or the stator rectifier Unsolder conclusions and separate them from each other. Note the location of the pins, to prevent any confusion in the assembly. Solder wire quickly to due to overheating of the rectifier is not out of order.

Replace the brush collector.

Ohmmeter or sequentially turn on the lamp 12 V power supply and check the stator coil for broken (Fig. 13.11). Between any pair of terminals must be conductivity.

Check-circuiting the stator coils in the core. Make sure that between the coil and the core is no conduction, otherwise replace the stator (Fig. 13.12).

Check the generator rotor for damage, in particular inspect the contact ring collector. The following slight overcooking can be removed by grinding with fine sandpaper, then wipe with a soft cloth slightly moistened with solvent. Badly worn rotor must be replaced.

Check rotor coil. Make sure that between the slip ring has a conductivity (Fig. 13.13). If the resistance is too low, then the coil short circuiting. If conductivity is absent or there is a short circuit, replace rotor.

Check the coil circuit of the rotor anchor. Make sure that there is continuity between the slip ring and the armature of the rotor (Fig. 13.14). If the conductivity is, replace the rotor.

Check the free rotation and the presence of backlash in the bearings of the rotor. If the bearing condition is in doubt, replace them. Make sure that the bearing of the rotor from the collector (snap ring groove should be directed to the contact rings).

Check the conductivity of the three diodes by connecting the ohmmeter leads to both ends of each diode. Conductivity should only be in one direction.

If the conductivity is detected in two directions, so probit diode rectifier must be replaced.

The assembly of the generator should start with soldering pins plate regulator, stator and rectifier.

Set the welded parts in the back cover and screw, the washer and tightening the nut output "B".

Gently press the brush, fix their position with a thin rod or a drill bit by pushing it through the hole in the rear cover. The new brushes are special openings, which include lock.

Make sure that the rear bearing snap ring is in the groove of the bearing (see. Fig. 13.9). Heat the rear bearing cover as well as during removal, and install the rotor.

Replace the rotor shaft Belleville washer, make sure it is the correct orientation.

Install the rotor on the front cover and light blows besieged it in place. Replace the three screws that secure the covers.

Install the second Belleville washer, the spacer sleeve, impeller and pulley. Staples pull the belt, set the washer and screw the nut.

Pull the latch holding the brush in the retracted position, then set the generator on a vehicle.

Accumulator battery

The battery is designed to start the motor and supply the consumers with the engine off when the generator does not produce electricity.

The battery is located in front of the engine compartment. Mount battery clamp bracket is provided, covering the entire body of the battery.

Disconnect the battery starting with the negative terminal.

Unscrew the nuts and remove the battery bracket.

Carefully remove the battery from the engine compartment.

In no case did not turn the battery. Spilled electrolyte immediately with plenty of water. To protect your hands from the electrolyte is necessary to ensure that the casing of the battery had no cracks and leaks electrolyte. When removing the battery

Battery use rubber gloves (not household) and protective goggles.

Check the battery bracket for damage caused by leakage from the battery. Otherwise, clean the surface with a stiff brush and wipe with a cloth soaked in a solution of baking soda in a clean, warm water.

The same solution wipe the upper part of the battery.

Check the casing and battery cover for cracks, if necessary, replace the battery.

Clean the battery terminals corresponding cleaner.

Clean the inside of the terminal clamps, using the appropriate tool. Replace damaged or old wire and dilapidated terminals.

Installation is spent to sequences, return to removal, taking into account the following.

Tighten the nuts securing the battery, without putting too much effort not to damage the body.

Connect the wires to the battery terminals, making sure that the upper part of the terminal wires is flush with the top of the terminal.

Tighten the clamp on cables.

Then apply to all the compounds of the lubricant layer. The inner surfaces of wires and clamps the contact surfaces of the battery terminals can not be lubricated, or may be in breach of contact between the wire clamps and terminals.

Check power cables

Periodically check each power lead. On the entire length of the wire should be no mechanical damage, burning or cracking insulation and corrosion. Because of the unsatisfactory state of the wires difficult engine start.

Check the condition of the clips of wires. The cracks, loose clamps and corrosion are not allowed. Plaque white under insulation at the connection with the wire clamp indicating wire corrosion and the need for its replacement. Check the strain relief clamp, thread the integrity of the nuts and bolts clamp corrosion.

If you need to replace only the wire connected to the positive terminal of the battery, first unplug the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

Disconnect and remove it from the vehicle. Make sure that the length and diameter of the wires of the new coincide exactly with the length and diameter of the wires replaced. Wire brush to remove rust from threaded connections to the starter or the "weight". For ease of installation and to prevent corrosion on the thread, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly. As often as possible, check the connection, tighten it and keep it clean.

Attach the wire to the starter or the "weight", tighten the nut.

Before connecting to the battery of the new wire to make sure it is long enough and is installed without tension.

First, attach the wire to the positive terminal of the battery, then to the negative terminal.

Checking the battery

Check the battery for signs of damage, such as cracks and broken case or cover, which could lead to electrolyte leakage. Determine the cause of the damage, if necessary, repair it or replace the battery. Remove corrosion soda solution in water.

Check specific gravity of the electrolyte, thus, a correction of density depending on the temperature of the electrolyte.

If the specific gravity of less than 1.100 g / cm ^3, slowly charge the battery current of 5 A for no more than 14 hours, then check the battery under load.

If the density of the electrolyte is in the range 1,100-1,220 g / ^cm 3, to recharge the battery.

If the density of the electrolyte more than 1,220 g / cm ^3, check the battery under load.

To check the battery load discharge the battery discharge current of 200 A for 15 seconds, then check the voltage across the battery terminals.

If the voltage is more than 9.6 V, the battery is good and it can be used.

If the voltage is within 9,6-6,5 V, perform quick charging the battery, then check it under load.

If the voltage is less than 6.5 V, the battery is defective and should be replaced.

Check the density of the electrolyte

The specific gravity of the electrolyte of the battery changes with temperature. Increasing the temperature of the electrolyte decreases the density, and conversely, a decrease in temperature leads to an increase in its density.

The value of the specific density of a fully charged battery should be in the range of 1.260 to 1.280 g / cm ³ at a temperature of 26,7 ?� C electrolyte. The measured specific gravity value must be adjusted by the addition of 4 points (0,004) for every 5.56 ?� C if the temperature is higher than 26,7 ?� C, 4 or subtract points for every 5.56 ?� C if the temperature is below 26,7 ?� C .

Never density measured immediately after the addition of water. Electrolyte and water should be mixed either by charging for a few minutes at a low charging current or battery endurance for 1 hour.