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"Galogenki"

The main reason for the rapid failure of the halogen lamps in cars - a large current flowing through the tube at the moment when, as the resistance of its threads in a cold state is many times less than in hot.

In this regard, it is recommended to limit the inrush current via an additional resistor in series with the incandescent halogen lamp filaments. After switching on the lamp resistance is bypassed by a voltage relay, installed parallel to the lamp.

A disadvantage of such devices is the need to use one or two electromagnetic relay parts insufficiently reliable, especially in the vehicle experiencing vibration. Furthermore, at the time of switching is still an abrupt current increase, although to a lesser extent than with conventional circuits a bulb.

Experts have developed a non-contact device that does not require the application of the relay and provides a smooth increase in the current in the lamp. The device consists of an additional resistor R1, two diodes VD1 and VD2 and electrolytic capacitor C.

When the passing-beam filament to the terminal 1 is applied a positive potential. This diode VD1 is connected in parallel lamp filament capacitor C, and in series with it - the resistor R1.

When the driving-beam filament positive potential is applied to terminal 2, and the capacitor C is connected in parallel strands beam through the diode VD2.

In this scheme, the connection voltage across the lamp EL1 and EL2 is growing smoothly.

Resistance cold filaments of conventional automotive lamps and dipped beam about an order of magnitude lower than the resistance in the heated state. The time constant of the heating filament lamp is 0,0014-0,003 with.

To eliminate unacceptably large current during switching on the lamp need to increase the speed of the lamp filament resistance was greater than the rate of voltage increase. This is achieved by setting the electrolytic capacitors 4000-6000 uF rated voltage of 25 V.

If you use these tips, along with the increase in lamp life and the life of the battery will last for inrush current reduction and increase smoothness of its rise.

About correct adjustment of headlights ...

Correct adjustment of headlights are more related to the culture of driving, rather than to any technical problems. Pohtomu talk about why over time, lights begin to dim light, perhaps enough on a deserted highway, but totally ineffective in the lively, especially if large counter-flow.

Sometimes sin generator and a voltage regulator. Here is the truth: failure of these devices visible on the "movement" of the luminous flux, as it obeys the number of engine revolutions. It is clear that no matter the work of the generator and the voltage regulator not only affects the efficiency of lamps - the first to suffer the battery, or do not get a full charge, or, on the contrary - it receives in excess of that "boiling" the electrolyte. Lights in this case played a role of an indicator, although excessive voltage greatly reduces the life of lamps. Constant as the dull radiation occurs for other reasons: a heavily soiled or covered with corrosion reflector, or appears dark coating on the inner surface of the bulb.

If the durability of the reflector depends on many factors, some even quite serviceable lamp "gaining" a dark patina of what some 30-50 thousand kilometers. Its efficiency in this case by 20 percent below the new one.

Reflector "live" longer. In modern cars and glass reflector lamps are, so to say, an indivisible whole, which primarily provides the most optimal light beam, and the second - the tightness. That lack of tightness contributed to the penetration of dust into the headlamps, which is then burnt on the reflector and reduces light output. The same thing happened with the moisture to condense on the active reflector, causing corrosion.

Five years ago, we tried to fight corrosion in some incredible way, flooding the spotlight on the red brake fluid. Fashion this rather harmful than useful undertaking has passed, but there was the other extreme - Plexiglas "points" on the glass. Besides the fact that such protection reduces the light output, "smearing" the direction of the rays, it is caused by strong heating and burning of the reflector. Which in this case is the use of protected stone-glass reflector if the suffering - is not clear, moreover, that, as has been said, glass and reflector are now indivisible whole? By the way, so there is no reason to buy the "lens" alone: good light from a lamp will never achieve.

Finally, regarding adjustments. Even perfectly lights fitted with halogen lamps, may be useless on the road, if they are regulated somehow. Not everyone, and not always an opportunity to make adjustment on the bench. So very good results give an old, well-tested methods of the "home" of adjustment. The machine is mounted on a flat area, measured 30 meters and put a mark on, say, a brick. One of the headlamps, included dazzle than a halt, and the second - turn the adjusting screws so that the border lighting vertically to bring to put a brick. The same is done and the other headlamp. The main beam is controlled in the horizontal direction, but without the bricks: here it is important to ensure that the beams from both lamps are not bifurcated and converged in the middle.

The electric motor

The most common fault in the electric motor - insulation breakdown in the windings. Let's say you put the car into the parking lot, and turn off the "wipers" forgotten. Three to four hours is enough to burnt coil. Or a rag left in the engine compartment niche where moving rod wiper. Motor jammed with the same result for its windings.

Sometimes it is possible to restore the insulation has withstood anchored bank with engine oil. A much larger effect is slightly heated linseed oil, stand if it anchored in several stages, making subsistence breaks to dry.

The same problem - the breakdown of the winding - catches and electric windshield washer. There is often a lack of attention from the vehicle owner when a water tank is empty, or the liquid is frozen or "tightly" clogged jets, sprays or pump filter, and fuse in the circuit of the electric motor is "bug".

In general the fuse is better not to joke. This will avoid not only the short-circuit fire sometimes ending, but also easier to detect faults.

For a beginner motorist should be the golden rule: the search for the cause of electrical faults should start with the fuse box.

I remember when I bought my first car, it is still in the store drew attention to the fact that the warning lamp for the battery. Then was born the assumption that there must be a brush of the generator has not yet got used, or "fooling" the voltage regulator (at that time cars were equipped with mechanical relay regulators Bulgarian production. Sometimes, they work on the "overcharging", and the lamp lights). Replacing the relay control of the results has not given: a generator does not produce energy. Replacing the brush assembly also proved futile.

It was necessary to remove the generator from the system pre-drain the coolant and remove thermostat. Check the generator windings and the "bridge" diodes showed that everything is in order. Only then, having done all this unnecessary work on a completely new car, I think to look at the fuse box. Of course. the corresponding fuse in the circuit excitation winding of the generator was not simple.

So if you have refused a generator, start checking the safety. Even if it is intact, not too lazy to clean up the area of its contact. Only then grasp the generator.

But do not rush with its dismantling and removal. First, check the brush assembly. The presence of large chips on the brushes, their considerable wear and lubrication can already cause a failure of the generator.

Pay attention to the condition of contact rings anchors, which are visible in the window, into which the brush assembly. Scratches and grooves appear sanded and then polished. If these steps fail, the need to undertake rectifier unit after disconnecting the wires from the battery and the generator. Check unit produced by a control lamp. The negative pole of the battery is displayed on the generator housing, a positive - through the bulb - the withdrawal of "30".

If the bulb lights up, it means that rectifier unit is broken and needs to be changed. Sometimes, however, that prbivaet either positive or negative block valves. But these details, perhaps it is better not to go, the more that a separate replacement valve is not practiced.

Finally, on the starter. This is perhaps one of the most durable units of the car, though, and "running" it in the toughest conditions. Even when the engine is thorough repaired, in a starter, it happens only change the brushes and slip rings cleaned.

The weakest spot starter - overrunning clutch, or "Bendix": it happens to be a fly or lie back pressure rollers. And then when starting the engine only heard the buzz: the starter spins but does not turn the engine flywheel. Sometimes it helps to flush "Bendix" in kerosene or acetone. But craftsmen usually flared ring with rollers and either change all the details of the cage, or they are washed thoroughly.

Another common failure is more concerned not with the starter, and the oxidation of a cliff or a special tip wicker bus connecting the engine to the body, that is, "mass" (the tire is located under the engine). In this case, the starter makes a distinctive clicking or generally "silent", unless, of course, the "silence" is not due to another cause - disconnecting the battery positive wiring the starter relay. Anyway needed verification. If the postings on the site of the relay - hold the bus. But if postings yet popped, do not try to insert it, without removing the starter - will lose your time. The starter will have to be dismantled.